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Routes in One Arms Rocks

East Boulder Arete V0 4
One Arm Overhang V3 6A
Right Hand Mantel V2 5+
V0 Dyno Left V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 812 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ernie Port on Dec 31, 2004 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Climb the north face (west rock) by using a small nubbin foothold while pressing into a one-arm mantle onto a small ledge...doing it one arm gets extra credit. Start on left side, work right and up.

Per Pat Ament: this is an altogether different problem with one arm and facing left. The easier version is done with two arms. The ground level might be a little more eroded, but that makes no difference to the difficulty. The start is not especially difficult. It is harder with only one hand, and the difficult part is up higher.

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Photos

My dear friend Rodger. You did not do this route with one arm in the '60s or clearly in the photo posted, with your right hand where it is, etc. It is an altogether different problem with one arm, my friend and facing left as one does. The ground level might be a little more eroded, but that makes no difference to the difficulty. The start is not especially difficult. Yes it too is harder with only one hand, but the difficult part is up higher. People keep telling me they have done this route, and I would not doubt it were it not as difficult as it is -- done they way prescribed with only the use of one hand all the way from bottom to the standing up above.... I would change the caption "finishing the one-arm mantel" to "finishing the normal easy way of doing the one-arm mantel." Nov 18, 2015
Rodger Raubach
  V2-3
Rodger Raubach  
  V2-3
The ground level for these problems has eroded away over time, and they are more difficult now than in the 1960s. The finger holds are much more polished and rounded, as well. IMHO, now a V3. Jul 6, 2011
Rodger Raubach
  V2-3
Rodger Raubach  
  V2-3
There are lots of small variations to doing this face. This was the first of the harder boulders (harder than V1) I was able to climb back in the 1960s. Still a fun problem! Apr 30, 2011