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Routes in Unknown Crag at Palisade Mountain

Hard but Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Al Simons/C.J. Simons
Page Views: 454 total, 3/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jan 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Go up a slab up and right to a slanting crack, place gear and step out on the slab aiming straight up for the obvious flake above. One 5.7 move (R)gets you to great holds. mantle up on the holds under the large right slanting flake. Place a large cam or two and lay back the flake till you gain the short OW Chimney. Good crack in back of the OW for a 1/2 -1 inch cam. A long reach or a short wiggle up the OW gains a bucket to pull on to top out. Rappel off of trees or rock or continue slogging uphill to some incredible looking walls.

Protection

1 or 2 1/2-1 inch cams for the lower crack and the upper Off Width. 2-4 inch cams for the flake.

Approach

Park at the paved pullout for Nancy's Rock (6 miles up the canyon from the Biege Siphon Tube) and start up the trail. After 80 feet or so, venture right off of the trail to the next gully east. Bushwhack up hill (steep) aiming for a short band of walls on the west side of the gully 1/2 way up the mountain. Some makeshift cairns mark a pseudo trail. The route is located on the far right side of a the 30-70 foot wall.

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