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Routes in West Buttress aka Comedy Wall

Comedy Works S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Far Side, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Stalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practical Joke T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Comedian S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mark Norden, Bruce Adams, 1974
Page Views: 989 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 20, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
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Description

I thought this was a challenging and interesting climb, but, if you don't messing with wide cracks, you may disagree. It's just a bit dirty at the start. Then stemming and some strangeness leads to what was for me a mysterious crux near the top.

Rossiter and Rolofson call this 5.8, but it seemed pretty hard compared to some of the 9s at Blob, so I'll give it a 9.

The two-bolt anchor, though convenient, is recent and unnecessary, since you can easily scramble down and left from the anchor to the ground.

Start: From where the trail hits the base of Blob, hike left and up. Scramble up a slab. There is a large, right-facing corner (Divine Wind). Left of that is a roof with a couple of very hard, bolted lines. Left of that is the large left facing corner of Night Stalker.

A few stemming moves get your hands to a ledge. You can place a green Alien from the ground to keep you upright, should you fall here. With your hands on the ledge, you can place a hand-sized (or two) at the base of the corner. Once you're standing on the ledge the climbing up the corner is straightforward until you get to a wide section with some strangeness. Easy climbing leads to steeper rock and the crux. Save at least a #4 Friend for the crux.

Protection

Double cams from green Alien to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot may be too small). A #4 Camalot will make it a bit more secure. Bring a single set of nuts. Rap from a 2-bolt anchor with one rope.

Per Jay Eggleston: one of the anchor bolts is missing a hanger, but some small cams can be used as a second anchor.
The anchor has been fixed; hardware from BCC - please support them if you don't already. Dec 6, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
To address the description and the first comment here:
A #4 cam would indeed have been helpful at the crux, which is awkward. Can step out right at crux into 2nd crack and back in to make the climb easier.
Multiple #4s? You could place them, but you hardly need them. Nov 22, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
One of the anchor bolts is missing a hanger, but some small cams can be used as a second anchor. Nov 22, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
This is a fun route. I agree that it has a few 5.9 sections on it. I think the anchor is nice. You could walk off, but it is a little dangerous with steep, exposed, climbing near the bottom. Nov 3, 2013
Definitely a worthwhile stop on the Obscure Tour, and a good warm-up for the harder trad climbs in this neighborhood. Jan 30, 2011
Quite good and surprisingly sustained, rate it 5.9. The subsidiary flake at the crux is questionable for protection, take Ivan's advice and carry several # 4's. Nov 24, 2005