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Routes in West Buttress aka Comedy Wall

Comedy Works S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Far Side, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Stalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practical Joke T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tears of a Clown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
True Comedian S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mark Norden, Bruce Adams, 1974
Page Views: 1,011 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 20, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

I thought this was a challenging and interesting climb, but, if you don't messing with wide cracks, you may disagree. It's just a bit dirty at the start. Then stemming and some strangeness leads to what was for me a mysterious crux near the top.

Rossiter and Rolofson call this 5.8, but it seemed pretty hard compared to some of the 9s at Blob, so I'll give it a 9.

The two-bolt anchor, though convenient, is recent and unnecessary, since you can easily scramble down and left from the anchor to the ground.

Start: From where the trail hits the base of Blob, hike left and up. Scramble up a slab. There is a large, right-facing corner (Divine Wind). Left of that is a roof with a couple of very hard, bolted lines. Left of that is the large left facing corner of Night Stalker.

A few stemming moves get your hands to a ledge. You can place a green Alien from the ground to keep you upright, should you fall here. With your hands on the ledge, you can place a hand-sized (or two) at the base of the corner. Once you're standing on the ledge the climbing up the corner is straightforward until you get to a wide section with some strangeness. Easy climbing leads to steeper rock and the crux. Save at least a #4 Friend for the crux.

Protection

Double cams from green Alien to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot may be too small). A #4 Camalot will make it a bit more secure. Bring a single set of nuts. Rap from a 2-bolt anchor with one rope.

Per Jay Eggleston: one of the anchor bolts is missing a hanger, but some small cams can be used as a second anchor.
Quite good and surprisingly sustained, rate it 5.9. The subsidiary flake at the crux is questionable for protection, take Ivan's advice and carry several # 4's. Nov 24, 2005
Definitely a worthwhile stop on the Obscure Tour, and a good warm-up for the harder trad climbs in this neighborhood. Jan 30, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
This is a fun route. I agree that it has a few 5.9 sections on it. I think the anchor is nice. You could walk off, but it is a little dangerous with steep, exposed, climbing near the bottom. Nov 3, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
One of the anchor bolts is missing a hanger, but some small cams can be used as a second anchor. Nov 22, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
To address the description and the first comment here:
A #4 cam would indeed have been helpful at the crux, which is awkward. Can step out right at crux into 2nd crack and back in to make the climb easier.
Multiple #4s? You could place them, but you hardly need them. Nov 22, 2015
The anchor has been fixed; hardware from BCC - please support them if you don't already. Dec 6, 2015

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