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> W Buttress aka Comedy…
Night Stalker
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.9 from 17
votes
Routes in West Buttress aka Comedy Wall
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Bad Girl's Dream T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bust Out laughing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Comedy Works S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Divine Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Far Side, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Night Stalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Practical Joke T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skyrunner S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Slapstick S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tears of a Clown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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True Comedian S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Mark Norden, Bruce Adams, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,693 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Jan 20, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob reopened 4/15/22
Details
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023
Details
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS is implementing annual area closures in BC beginning Feb. 1, 2023. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open . Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing & all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC and the AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of givi....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close Feb. 1 - July 31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting Feb. 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open . Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing & all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC and the AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of givi....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close Feb. 1 - July 31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting Feb. 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
I thought this was a challenging and interesting climb, but, if you don't messing with wide cracks, you may disagree. It's just a bit dirty at the start. Then stemming and some strangeness leads to what was for me a mysterious crux near the top.
Rossiter and Rolofson call this 5.8, but it seemed pretty hard compared to some of the 9s at Blob, so I'll give it a 9.
The two-bolt anchor, though convenient, is recent and unnecessary, since you can easily scramble down and left from the anchor to the ground.
Start: From where the trail hits the base of Blob, hike left and up. Scramble up a slab. There is a large, right-facing corner (Divine Wind). Left of that is a roof with a couple of very hard, bolted lines. Left of that is the large left facing corner of Night Stalker.
A few stemming moves get your hands to a ledge. You can place a green Alien from the ground to keep you upright, should you fall here. With your hands on the ledge, you can place a hand-sized (or two) at the base of the corner. Once you're standing on the ledge the climbing up the corner is straightforward until you get to a wide section with some strangeness. Easy climbing leads to steeper rock and the crux. Save at least a #4 Friend for the crux.
Rossiter and Rolofson call this 5.8, but it seemed pretty hard compared to some of the 9s at Blob, so I'll give it a 9.
The two-bolt anchor, though convenient, is recent and unnecessary, since you can easily scramble down and left from the anchor to the ground.
Start: From where the trail hits the base of Blob, hike left and up. Scramble up a slab. There is a large, right-facing corner (Divine Wind). Left of that is a roof with a couple of very hard, bolted lines. Left of that is the large left facing corner of Night Stalker.
A few stemming moves get your hands to a ledge. You can place a green Alien from the ground to keep you upright, should you fall here. With your hands on the ledge, you can place a hand-sized (or two) at the base of the corner. Once you're standing on the ledge the climbing up the corner is straightforward until you get to a wide section with some strangeness. Easy climbing leads to steeper rock and the crux. Save at least a #4 Friend for the crux.
Protection
Double cams from green Alien to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot may be too small). A #4 Camalot will make it a bit more secure. Bring a single set of nuts. Rap from a 2-bolt anchor with one rope.
Per Jay Eggleston: some small cams can be used as a backup second anchor.
Per Jay Eggleston: some small cams can be used as a backup second anchor.
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