Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 6,499 total · 34/month
Shared By: Handsome B. Wonderful on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the lead to test all hard offwidth climbers. Its moderate grade keeps it from getting much press, but anyone familiar with Scarpelli .11b's will have some idea of what to expect. Rest assured, this is probably one of the hardest offwidths at Vedauwoo. It is overhanging the whole way, and the crux is close to the top. Unlike a lot of other hard offwidths, you can not crimp your way through the crux on this one. Technique will be your only hope, so if you don't have any, then you won't stand much of a chance. Many talented offwidth climbers have called this a .12 making it one sandbagged mofo. If you have big fist, it may be an .11. If you have small to average fists, then it is a lot harder. To add to the difficulty, you will not find much friction on this fine line, rather, the inside of the crack is a very smooth, polished patina that will leave you squeezing with all your might just to stay in there.

Get psyched, get tough, and go for it.

Location

Big Pink is the obvious offwidth located on the lower tier immediately left of Plumb Line crack.

Protection

#4.5 Camalot to #6 Friend or equivalent Bigbros.

Per Andy W: there are rap bolts at the top.

Photos