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Routes in Lower Tier
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Amaranth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Big Pink T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corn T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kasha T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Plumb Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quinoa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rye T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spit Out (Spit Off?) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Bob Scarpelli |
| Page Views: | 8,634 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Handsome B. Wonderful on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
This is the lead to test all hard offwidth climbers. Its moderate grade keeps it from getting much press, but anyone familiar with Scarpelli .11b's will have some idea of what to expect. Rest assured, this is probably one of the hardest offwidths at Vedauwoo. It is overhanging the whole way, and the crux is close to the top. Unlike a lot of other hard offwidths, you can not crimp your way through the crux on this one. Technique will be your only hope, so if you don't have any, then you won't stand much of a chance. Many talented offwidth climbers have called this a .12 making it one sandbagged mofo. If you have big fist, it may be an .11. If you have small to average fists, then it is a lot harder. To add to the difficulty, you will not find much friction on this fine line, rather, the inside of the crack is a very smooth, polished patina that will leave you squeezing with all your might just to stay in there.
Get psyched, get tough, and go for it.
Get psyched, get tough, and go for it.
Location
Big Pink is the obvious offwidth located on the lower tier immediately left of Plumb Line crack.
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