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Routes in Triangle Rock

Bucket Brigade T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
EB Jeebies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stud Pile T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talking Hands T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Double Lieback) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: C. Salaun, J. Johnson, 1979
Page Views: 221 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 2, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a nice flake & groove to a jam crack in a dihedral that draws your eye as you inspect the short NW face. It lies just left of a deep water groove (Twig's Lament) and the West arĂȘte of the crag. Only 75 or 80 feet, it can pack a workout. This is often in the shade until mid-afternoon.

Find a boulder on the W arĂȘte of the crag, hop on. You can place a green Alien from the boulder. Grab a hanging edge of the groove, muscle aboard. Work the edge & a crack above to good rests before the dihedral. Jam the toothy hand to fist crack to the top. The left wall is quite grippy & has scattered holds & dishes. There is a small tree & grooves 20 feet back from the top.

Scramble off to the SE.

It gets 1.7 stars IMO.

Protection

Wires, cams to #4 Friend.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Strenuous and awkward in spots but still pretty good, overall.
The protection right off the boulder is lacking, but the flake is a pretty good jug, and after 5' you get into good hand-jams and good protection, with a small Alien and #2 Camalot. Aug 15, 2017
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  5.8
- - -  
  5.8
Strenuous, but really fun. Definitely worth the effort. Jul 17, 2008