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Routes in Petit Bastille
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Bricklayer's Spite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Eyes to See T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plankton Stew T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scimitar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sourpuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Two-Tone Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.92992, -105.28249 |
| FA: | Jim Stuberg/Carl Harrison, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 836 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Clint Locks on Jun 5, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
So, on a random lark, I decided I wanted to check out the rock of the Petit Bastille. It was largely what I thought it would be: loose, crusty, and not too aesthetic.Specifically, for Bricklayer's Spite, [start] on a large boulder up the talus field, right off the Fowler Trail. Head up 5.5 ground with little protection until a chance comes to cut left and get into a dark band. Here, it gets steep, and you'll find your first good pro. Head left again to gain a [left]-angling crack with (at the time of this writing) a fixed nut. Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse right a bit and disappear into a chimney. At this point, you have 2 options: 1) stay on the face and work to the summit, left, or 2)what I call "Golpher's Delight", climb further into the chimney and squeeze out right through boulders to the summit. This variation is actually quite fun, and saved the climb for me.
No stars here, but if Calypso looks like the DMV at 3:30...consider Bricklayer's Spite. (Or just go for a beer.)
Protection
The summit reqires no real anchor. You can belay, as for Reggae, "al [cheval]"...or something like that. I'm not French.
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