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Routes in The Mission Wall

Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocketman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wild Child S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Purnell, 2000
Page Views: 1,928 total, 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

In the summer of 2000 Greg Purnell put up a route through the main black sector of the Mission Wall. Gneiss Route starts roughly in the middle sector of the wall, in the main section that has been cleared of undergrowth. The climbing starts just left of the pegmatite band; this band holds a nice route in its own right.

P1. For Greg's route, angle up left toward a small overhang and a tricky 5.11 crux 15 feet off the deck. Some interesting climbing in the 5.10/5.11 range gets you to a double bolt anchor at 90 feet. This makes a fine 5.11 pitch all by itself, although it still needs a bit of cleaning at the belay ledge--you'll need two ropes to get down from the 120' anchor though.

P2. The second pitch jumps left a bit immediately for a questionable flake, straightens out and heads for the black overhang above. The overhang can be negotiated on some remarkably huge holds at 5.12a. You can stop just over this roof or continue up the slab for 40 feet more. This provides good access to the Surette Ledge without the hair-ball scramble used when approached from above. Two stars for a lot of good climbing, largely but not completely good stone, and the well constructed bolting job.

Protection

QD only. This two pitch route can be done with a 60 m rope, but double ropes makes much better sense all around both for the raps and for the potential to string pitches together. The first pitch is 5.11 and the second is 5.12a/b.

The first pitch anchor is at 120' so be careful if you're only doing the first pitch.

Two finishes can be had for the upper pitch. One ends just above the overhang. Alternatively, you can continue through the black slab above for another 40 ft and pick up a third double bolt anchor at the Surette ledge.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12a/b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12a/b
The "anchors" to the second pitch, just above the crux, are awful and very difficult to clip. There is a single chain link that is small, and I spent a good 10 to 15 seconds trying to clip my draw into it as I'm pumping out. I took two more falls trying this, each spending 10-15 seconds before falling. Very frustrating. Even worse is that there is no way to thread the rope through the link while clipping indirect either. I ended up lowering some, getting a few extra draws, and climbing the dirty 5.8 slab to anchors above. Jun 22, 2015
Greg Miller
  5.11+
Greg Miller  
  5.11+
Super fun route! A better start would be Billy, 11-. The climbing on the crux pitch of Gneiss route has a super adventurous feel and is sporty in sections. Wear a helmet, and soak up the exposure. Some people may say the rock quality detracts from this route, but I enjoy it and don't expect there to be chalk on every hold... if you want that, go hang with the crowds on wall of the '90s.
The belay bolts right after the crux pitch are in a terrible stance, best to keep climbing into the 3 pitch to Surrette Ledge, 5.9ish. You can rap the route with one 70m rope, from Surrette Ledge to the anchors atop p.1, then to the ground. Jun 9, 2014
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
You can rap this route from Surette Ledge with two single raps with a 70m rope. Jun 27, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
The first pitch of this is excellent. Definitely thought there were 3, 5.11ish cruxes from steep pulling to delicate face climbing. Cut all of the tat off the anchor today and added chains for a safe rap. A 70m rope will just barely get you down... knot your ends. Jul 18, 2010
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
  5.12a/b
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
  5.12a/b
An excellent line with several hard bits, including the start to the second pitch. Very cool moves right off the deck and it keeps surprising you. The last 40' doesn't appear to get a lot of traffic to Surette Ledge. Jul 24, 2007
WARNING: The first belay is at 120' (as in the photo) not at 90' (as in the description). You cannot lower directly from the first belay with a 60m rope. Aug 9, 2004
The rap line is Gneiss Route. Jun 15, 2004
What is the route that climbs the rap line (right side of photo) from Surette Ledge? I think we were lost last weekend. Jun 15, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Warm up the forearms for the start! Also if you are worried about the clip at the first pitch crux, you can get to a jug above and left, and clip from your waist.

Very dicey clip at the P2 crux with the flake missing. Jun 11, 2004
richard magill
  5.11d
richard magill  
  5.11d
Dirty and a little chossy, but worth doing for the great exposure and cool position. Jun 11, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
With the 'questionable flake' (that Richard refers to) now gone, it makes for the starting moves of the second pitch more difficult (.12) and the 2nd clip quite a reach (I am 6'2", with go-go gadget arms). Mar 22, 2004
Hill  
Gneiss route no longer starts just left of the pegmatite band. That description now belongs to Wild Child, which ain't too bad. Bring your helmet though!! Jul 24, 2003