Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m)|
|FA:||S. Woodruff, D. Hare, 1970's|
|Page Views:||716 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 16, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1- 5.10b, 70': On the North/North-west face of the Tower of the moon, you will see a set of thin cracks rising from near the right side, going up and left to the center of a wide roof. YOu can climb these to reach the roof and then move 8 meters left to a vertical crack system and a tree, belaying just below the left side of the roof, perhaps only 6 meters off of the ground.This pitch is a little licheny and didn't look great. We skipped it and went from the ground up to the roof from the left side directly, continuing onto the second pitch without a belay.
P2- 5.10a, 70': Start from the ground or from the belay. Big holds are where they need to be to make this pitch work. Cut up into the roof on a short crack and then proceed radically rightward over the roof in a scrunch-problem, with your hands under-clinging a protectable crack and your feet on a ledge, no more than 2 feet lower. This is a little insecure, but very doable. As the crack ends a few key face holds appear. then you proceed upward to a flake and small tree to belay from a few medium nuts and a sling on a flake plus a small tree.This pitch, no doubt, gave the route it's name. A fall by the leader or second would drop you just below the eaves of the big roof.
P3- 5.7, 100': Step up and left delicately for 8 meters from the belay to reach the juggy arete. Protect a few meters up that and continue for the remainder of 30M to reach the top, protecting where possible. This pitch is mostly thank-god holds and the runout should not be too bothersome, but pro when possible due to some loose rock potential.