Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
Routes in Ra
|Empire of the Air T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Eternal Sunshine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Higher Calling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Miner's Delight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Moving Zen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Nearer To Thee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Rohan Face, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smeagol's Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Strike It Rich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Training Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Waimea S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Walk On Water S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Windows On the World S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Type:||Sport, 260 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright|
|Page Views:||1,372 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Tarrant on Aug 13, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionYet another 3 pitch sport route on Ra. A long way from Oahu, this Waimea starts just right of Moving Zen. It's the 5th bolted line coming up the hill. The first pitch is the money pitch. The upper two pitches are kind of out of character in difficulty but make for a nice way to top out. The opening pitch is deceptive in two ways: First, the stone up high looks a little suspect, but it's not. The rock is actually excellent the whole way. Also, the pitch looks maybe vertical. It's not--you'll see.
Pitch 1: 5.12c, 14 bolts + 3 bolt anchor, 110'. Swim up a clean granite face with small dihedrals and aretes up to a break below a pegmatite band. Cross the band (.10) and enter into a big, sweeping wave. The crux (.12b/c) comes at bolt 10, followed by several radical moves through pretty steep terrain. You'll get a rest before exiting the wave, then ride it out to the anchor. The crux is height-dependent. 6'0" barely gets you through at middle 5.12. It's sure to feel easier if you're taller, and probably much harder if you're shorter.
P2: 5.10a, 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 70'. Head straight up the face to a fun headwall on solid stone. A short slab leads to the anchor on a large ledge.
P3: 5.9, 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 80'. A decent pitch on good rock climbs through corners and bulges. Some lichen detracts just a bit from the nice position. Belay from 2 bolts and then skip up to the top.
Descent: Walk down the ramp to the north.
Taken by itself, the 1st pitch is at least 3 stars. We're contemplating lowering the anchor so it can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope. As is, you'll need a 70m or two ropes to lower or rap. Also, it's not really possible to dog through the crux, and it's almost impossible for the person following to aid through it. So, if you're unsure, leave a couple long cheater slings on bolt #11 so the second can get up it.
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