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Routes in 1. Butt Wall

Broomhillda S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butt Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Going Greek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Cheek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Flatulence S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Matillda S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport
FA: W. Peterson, D. Trim; 1993
Page Views: 3,224 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Set up the belay near a tree on a ledge near the middle of the Butt Wall, to the right of the route "Butt Crack."Scramble up to the first bolt, then traverse left and up the orange rock, over polished holds, passing a ledge with a small tree. Continue up the steep, well-featured, face past more bolts to the anchor.

Protection

9 bolts to the anchor.
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The anchor and all of the lead protection bolts have been updated with hardware from the ASCA. Jul 20, 2015
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
  5.8+
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
  5.8+
If you're in the area, this line is absolutely worth your time. The unique, shiny, polished granite makes the first few moves feel spicy, and there's a nice technical section of 5.8 up top.

I graded this as 5.8+ just to acknowledge that there's a good mental factor to the first few moves; none of the movement itself is higher than 5.8. Jul 7, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Borderline VS/HVS with a very slippery start. Oct 16, 2013
Chip Loomis
  5.8+
Chip Loomis  
  5.8+
Starting on the slab instead of the alcove will avoid the sketchy start. Regardless a good climb. 60m rope just works from the alcove/butt crack. Aug 23, 2010
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
 
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
 
After the scrambly not-so-fun start, this route makes a nice moderate start to the day, but if you're so inclined the two 5.9s to the left of the gear route (which is to the left of this route) are much more fun. Jun 26, 2006