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Routes in Fourth Flatiron

Arc de Triumph S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
East Face, Extra Credit Summit T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Face, North Side T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
East Face, South Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face/4th Flatiron T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Excellent Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Lower South-East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
No Balls At All V1 5
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Type: Boulder, 80 ft
FA: Stefan Greibel & Tony Bubb 7/29/04
Page Views: 1,305 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 28, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


The 4th Flatiron is really 3 different slabs, between each slab is a gully or hanging garden diagonaling up and north between for hundreds of feet. Between the first and second slab it is a simple notch up top, but between the second and third slab, it is an odd grassy trench, a hanging garden of sorts.In this trench, which one would normally step down into from the second slab, then run up and Northwest to the third slab, on the North side, there is a ridge of steep puzzle pieces running a length from a large pine that grows against the rock and continues for maybe 80 feet. The ridge is jugs, sidepulls, and underclings on "puzzle piece" holds that looks like a loose-fit jigsaw puzzle the entire way to the opening of the gully. The rock is almost universally solid. The crux move is a move up and left on big holds perhaps 15' off of the deck and comes about 1/3 way through the route. If you fell, you'd probably break something and proceed to roll 50-100' down the gully through rocks, so this is a boulder problem for climbers who WILL NOT FALL. Consider it a highball.

The rating is V0 or V1. I said V1 in approach shoes, particularly considering the enduro factor of the climb.


A spotter- or not. This is essentially a high-ball. A fall would be nasty and a rescue from there would be horrible. If you are alone, they won't find the body for weeks or months.


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This one truly sounds like a *** must-do classic to me Tony. Maybe you should stick to splitting grades and complaining about fixed gear placements. Jul 30, 2004
I thought the route name was a play on Red Rocks' "Lotta Balls Wall". Maybe? Jul 30, 2004
Maybe we should stop encouraging the negative image of Front Range Climbers by quabbling over ratings and other ARBITRARY things. Assuming that you used the term AC as a derogotory term for aid climber, give it a rest and remember what brings people out to the crags in first place. Climb and let climb you maladjusted boulderer you... Jul 26, 2005
Ben, you must be new to this site. Jul 27, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
This is really super funny, because the name was chosen with this exact scenario in mind. It seemed that some 'ac' always has something stupid to say, but not own up to it by posting their name...
I don't know who you are, but you do, and this route was named just for you. Jul 4, 2008
England   ?
So, when did the FA take place Mr. Bubb??? Do you know how long people have been climbing here? You're funny!!! Feb 12, 2009
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
You've been bubbed. Feb 13, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Thanks England. For my own part, only for 14 years, but I am sure others have, too... Feel free to add better info.

Checked out your profile, enjoyed this line:
"More information: West Virginia Native; Colorado Springs Resident. Father, and Friend To All."

Cheers, pal. Feb 14, 2009
England   ?
No I don't have any additional information on this climb. Actually I was looking for a Tony Bubb FA to do in the Boulder area, and found this. I had totally forgotten that I had posted this until I was checking all of my posts. I guess I had drank to much, and thought it might be fun to poke some fun in your general direction. No disrespect was meant. Sep 30, 2009

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