PRINT: Rock Climb Alpine-Moe (formerly Dihedral Dude), Boulder

Alpine-Moe (formerly Dihedral Dude)

5.9, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 1.5 from 15 votes
FA: Bob, Horan, Steve Morris, and Jim Ghiselli, TR, 1998. First lead: Moe Hershoff, Vaino Kodas, 2004
Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Vanishing Point

Description

Start 30 feet left of Werner's Legacy on a wall that faces the creek. Climb a steep headwall past four bolts, then run up an easy slab (optional small gear) to a second headwall. Climb past two more bolts and continue up another easy slab to a 2-bolt anchor at 95'.

There are no rappel rings on the anchor, so belay from the top, bring your partner up, then downclimb to the left.

Directly above the anchor are two more bolted routes: a left-facing corner and an arete just to the right. A third bolted route climbs up a face left of the anchor. All routes are well-bolted and look to be of high quality. Has anyone done these routes?

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. There is a long runout between the 4th and 5th bolts on easy ground; you may want to bring some small cams or wired nuts to protect this section.

There are no rappel rings at the anchor, but there is an easy downclimb to the left.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side of Vanishing Point.<br>
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Modified from original photo by Vaino Kodas.

Right side of Vanishing Point. Modified from original photo by Vaino Kodas.

A close up of the start.

Alpine-Moe starts just left of Werner's Legacy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Klammer
Eagle, CO

5.9

If 5.9 is at your limit a few pieces up to 0.5" may be helpful. If 5.9 is easy for you, the bolts should be plenty. All cruxes are bolt protected and the runouts between easy. May 20, 2013

D S
Boulder, CO

5.9

As of 8/17/2013, there are two quick-links in lieu of rap rings. Although you still may not want to top rope it, as the drag is pretty bad. Also, watch the ends of your rope if lowering. A 60m just got us down with a couple of feet to spare.... Aug 17, 2013

Jay Eggleston
Denver

5.8

If you don't want to use the bolts with quicklinks to descend, it is an easy downclimb in the gully to the north. Dec 8, 2014

bhoran Horan
Boulder, CO

This was toproped and left as such by Bob, Horan, Steve Morris, and Jim Ghiselli in 1998. We called it Dihedral Dude, 5.11c. Dec 26, 2016

Kevin Corrigan
Boulder, CO

5.8

The runouts are lengthy but all on lower angle terrain. I brought a couple 0.4s and 0.5s but didn't notice any solid placements in those sections. The cracks are pretty flared. You may have better luck with something smaller. I'd say it's closer to a sport route than a trad route but should be listed as mixed. Jul 20, 2018