Talus Food Crack
5.9+,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 8
votes
FA: FFA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff, 1979
Colorado
> S Platte
> Pine Area
> Sphinx Rock
Access Issue: Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property
Details
6/3/06 -- Sphinx Rock (aka Elephant Rock) in Pinegrove, Colorado, is located on private property. Trespassing for any reason is illegal. Trespassing will now be enforced with the assistance of the local sheriff's office. Violators will be held accountable for towed vehicles, citations, and any legal actions. Per
T Dz: I talked to the owner of the saloon who knows the property owner. Apparently, his deceased wife is buried at the base of Sphinx. Best to let her rest if so.
Description
To the left of the "Stage Right" ramp and "Black Crack," note the beautiful right angling crack that begins about 20 feet off the ground. You may find it less beautiful once you are on it.
The first moves are protected by two bolts, and then you are in the crack. A combination of fist jams, arm jams, off width grovelling, flailing, and occasional whimpering were all effective.
After 90 feet or so, you can set anchors and watch your follower. Or, you can run it up to the tree. Finally, you could take it to the top and sling a boulder.
Double rope rap off tree or easy walk off Left.
I thought this harder than 5.9+, as well as awkward. I would not call it fun, but I would call it training. If you like funky off width-y South Platte excursions, this climb is for you.
Protection
Can protect with all cams, .75 to 4.5, with doubles in the handsize and above. Larger hexes could also be helpful. Multiple anchor possibilities (see below).
Colorado
Golden, CO
Denver, Colorado