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Routes in Petit Bastille
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Bricklayer's Spite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Eyes to See T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plankton Stew T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scimitar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sourpuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Two-Tone Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.92992, -105.28249 |
| FA: | Stuburg, Brooks |
| Page Views: | 912 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 21, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
OK, call me a sourpuss for saying it, but... while this is not the worst route in Eldo, it is certainly one of the least worthwhile.
To find this climb walk up to the south on the West Face of the Petit Bastille, you will pass a huge right-facing two-colored dihedral called (surprise) "Two Tone Dihedral" and not far to the right and above that you will see a bulge just off of the ground, above that is a short handcrack.
Climb the bulge to the right and then come back on secure incut face moves to reach a handcrack. Place bomber gear and climb up and through the second bulge. After this, the climbing is essentially over and you have 10 more meters of picking through trashy rock to reach the top. This can be accomplished by aiming to the right side of a short, right-facing dihedral up to, where there is a tree. A better option is to escape off the rock to the right. The best option of all is to just skip it. The handcrack is fun, but the rest is not even worth the effort of the 60 second walkoff.
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