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S-Crack

5.10b, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Ft Collins > Horsetooth Rese… > Torture Chamber
Warning Access Issue: Larimer County DNR Regulations DetailsDrop down

Description

There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.

Location

This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of The Torture Chamber.

Protection

Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lower Torture Chamber routes.
[Hide Photo] Lower Torture Chamber routes.
S-Crack, 4/5/2011.
[Hide Photo] S-Crack, 4/5/2011.
Jimn on the S-Crack.
[Hide Photo] Jimn on the S-Crack.
S-Crack.
[Hide Photo] S-Crack.
Chris on the S-Crack.
[Hide Photo] Chris on the S-Crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Martinuzzi
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.

Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds. Aug 27, 2009
Drew Hallett
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] While the pro is in several handholds, I do not feel that that warrants this climb PG-13/R. It protects quite well and does not hinder stability on the rock very much at all IMO. Oct 22, 2013
Timmy Kessel
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Super good climb, great moves, and great rock! Dec 20, 2016
Dylan Demyanek
Baltimore, MD
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This route went safely with three nuts - a small one to protect the thin, vertical crack at the start, a very small one where the crack goes horizontal, and a medium one in the good slot that's used for a left hand hold. From there, it's clear to the top. Fun line! Feb 8, 2017
J Cook
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Just rehearse on TR and boulder it. It's significantly harder trying to place gear than to boulder it. You can actually protect it pretty well with enough pads. It's easy once you have the beta dialed. Aug 14, 2019