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Routes in Vrain Dead

Red Fox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vrain Child S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Vrain Dead T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alvino?
Page Views: 590 total, 4/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jun 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the prominant arching crack on the right side of the formation. Belay from an alcove 15 feet up from the tree at the base of the cliff. This start is accessed from a ledge a bit up the right gully. Just traverse down and into the hole.

The start has some great climbing, but is somewhat contrived, as you can step over to the ledges at any time for 15 feet. The crux is found once this "cheating" is no longer possible, and involves a long reach to a great hold and a lock. The difficulty eases off, but the pro becomes a little more sparse as you slab up the seam to it's termination and get to the two bolt anchor. It is maybe 5.5 or 5.6R. There is a little lichen down low, but overall it is a great little route.

A 50 meter will get you to the ground.

Protection

Small gear and just a few medium pieces, 2 bolts and chains at the top.

Photos

I think this is at least 5.10. I'm ~5'8" and could have reached a key hold and some key fingerlocks from other locks in the slanting crack if I had at least another 5" of reach. I was forced to make difficult, awkward cranks off of poor fingertip positions with no feet.

About an hour before, I toproped Think Tank (11a) at the Vrain Trust, on the tier above. The Vrain Dead crux is a move similar to the Think Tank crux – a LONG reach off of a positive finger lock to a prominent rounded hold up on the right AND eventually standing up on that hold with your right foot. The crux sequence of each route also felt the same in difficulty. Said prominent, rounded hold is the only real hold to be found to the right, along the slanting crack of Vrain Dead. Jun 8, 2015
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.9
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.9
I thought the crux of this this was harder than Crooked Cross. The second pitch is short but fun and worthwhile if already there. Apr 20, 2009
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.8+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.8+
There is also a second, short pitch. Step right from the belay and go up a little overhang. Go up another 10 ft, hand traverse left and go up a small roof on big holds (~5.6). 40 ft in all to another 2 bolt rap anchor (or you could just skip the middle belay). A 70 meter rope got us from the top to the bottom with only a little rope to spare on rappel.

The first pitch is reachy and probably harder than 5.8 if you aren't tall.

The first pitch seemed a little spooky on lead (I haven't lead much trad slab), but the second was more comfortable to me - like the Eldo climbing I'm used to. Feb 18, 2009