PRINT: Rock Climb Crack a Smile, Estes Park Valley

Crack a Smile

5.12a/b, Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 15 votes
FA: Lawrence Stuemke, '94
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Monastery > Catacomb

Access Issue: Area closure - now lifted. Previously: Storm Mt./Cedar Park road is reopened to all Details

Per Kurtz: The Monastery is open again! fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.

Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.

Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

Stellar mixed line. Rock reminiscent of Vestibule near Psychotomic. Located on the East side of the Catacomb, also across from Gravestone and Mausoleum - and just downhill from Contortionist's Forte. I started from the blocks and flakes, although the crack could be climbed to this same point. Standing on the block one can place a nut to protect the move to the first fixed gear. Climb past four (as of 6/6/04) pieces of fixed gear (leave em) on stellar fun laybacking and locks to a jug. Clip the first bolt. Pull through powerful and thought provoking moves past the two bolts to the anchors. Great line!

Protection

As of 6/6/04 there were 4 fixed nuts as well as two bolts above and the 2 anchor bolts. A small/medium stopper protected the moves to the first fixed gear - you may need other supplemental gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Midway up Crack a Smile.

Anchor upgraded to all Stainless Steel. Glad to put those old rusty cold shuts out to pasture.

The upper face is steep!

Rob styling the lower crack....

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

I think those fixed wires have been there a while. Makes this route esentially a sport route, so non-trad climbers should not shy away from this one. One of the better 12's at the Monastary. Jun 16, 2004

Anonymous Coward

Crack a Smile - you will when you complete this route! I think it is one of the best routes at the monestery. Nice fingerish crack to some powerful pulls past two bolts - Close to classic! Dec 22, 2004

climber73
Fort Collins, CO

Only 2 wires left in the crack as of today. Bring gear to lead. Sep 8, 2007

Dusty
Fort Collins

Only one fixed wire left. Don't expect a sport lead. Excellent route. May 12, 2008

Steven Lucarelli
Grand Junction, CO

5.12a

Still only one fixed nut, there are good stances to place gear from though. Sep 21, 2009

Brian Weinstein

5.12a

A bit too short for four stars but a nice line nonetheless. Start the crack from the ground (instead of high on the blocks) for full value. I found the crux after the first bolt. Apr 12, 2010

Xavier Rojas
Broomfield

5.12c PG13

Only one wire in the crack. It's about 10+ trad to the crux. My homie who is a solid trad leader lead this up to the crux, and the gear is not straightforward - mostly dealing with flaring crack pieces. The crux, though bolted, is f******* nails, felt harder than 12a.

IMO, given the flaring nature of the crack and the fact that the top is bolted anyways, this would be better as a sport climb. As it stands, very, very few 5.12 climbers are hauling in their trad gear to jump on a route like this, which is a shame, because it could be a classic. Jun 8, 2020