Type: Sport, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,974 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 29, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This is a combination of two submissions. To avoid a duplicate post, the second post is added on here.

This short, steep, pocket-pulling, boulder problem on a rope - not your usual Shelf affair - is on the Incredible Hulk Boulder. To get there, either hike to the far side and aim down or follow the approach path from the right side of Bulge wall at the Gallery, look for a faint path to the right (the main trail heads up to the far side and you will have to scramble down again). This is the right line of three on the SE side of the boulder, just right of the 13. Sweet long pulls and quick problem solving end just as quickly. You may give this three stars if you like this style - I prefer it to last longer. Given 11d by Van Horn's guide and 12a/b in Knapp's -fun line no matter the grade.

Per LeeAB Brinckerhoff: this is really fun pocket climbing on the steep face. All the holds are good by Shelf standards, but the wall is way steeper. I lead this route several times and bouldered it a couple. I have a friend who at the time had not climbed 5.12- but could boulder up to V6 who was working it as a boulder problem, so while the fall is big from the top, it is not terrible.

  • 4 Stars is for bouldering it, 3 stars for leading. As a boulder problem, it is tall and proud, even if you do it on a rope first (obviously even prouder if not checked out on a rope), but as a lead it's just too short for 4 stars.

Protection

3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Super Phrique or (per LeeAB Brinckerhoff) pads.

Location

Per LeeAB Brinckerhoff: the right hand line on the down canyon face of the boulder.

Photos

Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
 
This was a really fun boulder problem. 2 stars for a route but 4 for a boulder problem. Worth doing if you're tired of the technobabble of Shelf and really feel like pullin'. Nov 27, 2006
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
How's the landing, and how high is the business? Nov 19, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
There really is no part that is the "business" per say, though it is a little harder at about 15 feet, for the hands. The landing is pretty flat, though there is a boulder to your right that you may want to be spotted off of. As I said a friend of mine was trying to boulder this and took several falls and I don't recall him hitting the boulder to the right or even coming all that close, though he may have been bailing.

Of course, this could have all changed if the canyon had flash flooded since I'd last been there.

You should definitely do it, Mono, but don't tell K that I told you to. Nov 21, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
This would be a tall cool one w/o a rope. I remember back in the early nineties I arrived at this boulder to find Dan and Darryl working the .13 They were all about how I should try the Mutant because "it's maybe .11b". Nice sandbag guys! I sent it 2nd try, and they shut up.... Hmm memories.... Feb 20, 2009
Ian Spencer-Green
Fort Collins, CO
Ian Spencer-Green   Fort Collins, CO
I bouldered this after leading it a few times and was quite scared. I don't know what the landing looks like now, but it felt more like a solo than a boulder problem to me. Jul 9, 2009
Could use a little beta through the first 10-15 feet? Definitely felt harder than V4, in my opinion, but I be doing some whack beta. Please help, definitely want to send next time I go down to Shelf. Oct 6, 2010
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Interesting to see people suggesting bouldering this thing. If I remember correctly, the crux is at the top. Oct 6, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Definitely boulderable... good landing. Apr 4, 2011
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
 
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
 
Austin Cooner
  5.12a V4
Austin Cooner  
  5.12a V4
Incredible as a boulder problem. Landing zone is good. The topout is not easy. Nov 12, 2012