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Routes in Narrows Proper

Art of Breaking, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cantaloupe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cement Garden, The T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Chiroptophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Choss Ninja S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fudge Judge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other People's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
PWTHFRWDLGS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
People's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Rebolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Faction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Screwheads S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sloppy Seconds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snap, Crackle, Pop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village Idiot, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra
Page Views: 125 total · 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 8, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This pitch isn't so bad--it just needs some traffic. We originally did it as a ground-up lead with only three bolts in 30 meters, with the occasional shit-useless TCU, but Luke Laeser went back, cleaned some hanging daggers, and bolted the route properly, as it needed to be.

This route is downhill and to the north of the Corridor. Drop down the slidey gully, hook a left under a long, slabby cracked wall, and you'll find this long tan face, the right wall of a deep chimney/cleft. This is only the first pitch of an envisioned two-pitch line, which looks to get better on pitch two, which would also need to go ground-up given the staggering amount of stacked loose shit atop the crag.

Anyway, climb the long face on good square-cut edges, taking care with anything dagger-shaped or hollow, stepping left into an alcove at one point, then climbing up and right via weird chimneying-type moves to a two-bolt anchor at the start of some pretty stellar-looking silver stone.



10-12 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).


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