Type: Trad, 380 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Noel Childs, Kirk Miller, Roger "Strappo" Hughes
Page Views: 4,245 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ken Heiser on May 25, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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This is a stupendous face route in an amazingly beautiful wilderness setting. Follow Hill's description for approaching Wigwam Dome. If you are lucky, you will find the trail that leads right to the base of the cliff. From the base looking up, you have the broad expanse of slab with the huge arch in it to you right and to the left the impressive Tee Pee (or TB??) Buttress a 400+ tower that forms the left side of Wigwam Dome. Walk up around and left past the base of the arete and look for the bolts.

P1. 11a. Climb directly up to the first bolt on the west side of the arete (crux). After pulling around the arete onto the south-facing slab the fun begins. 80 or 90 feet of sustained face climbing on impeccable feldspar crystals with another 10c crux at about 75 feet. This pitch is very sustained at the 10a level. Belay on a nice flat ledge with two bolts.

P2. 10b. Up to the first bolt past a couple of ledges (I used gear here) to the base of the arete. Up the arete (crux) on amazing crystal pinching and arete hugging. The climbing eases of after a bit and climbs past several more bolts to another nice ledge with a two bolt belay.

P3. 10b. I found this to be the phsycological crux of the route. This is the old pitch 3 of TB Buttress. I have vivid memories of the scariness of this thing (maybe I was just off that day ;-) Up the face on more typical very thin lower angle face climb with multiple runouts to the top of the tower. Wheeww.

Walk back to the norh to locate the rappels down the west side of Wigwam.

Classic rock, classic moves, classic position!!

What more can I say ? ;)


This is mainly bolt protected, but there are a couple of places getting off ledges etc. where a piece of gear might come in handy. I personally always carry a small selection of gear (small amount of gear but a wide variety) on routes like this. I agree with Hubbel's comment in the guide that even though these climbs are bolted, they don't have the feel of sport climbs.

Per highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion: you need 2 60m ropes to rappel if you top out.


Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
If you aren't up to the .11a low crux, you can start on the adjacent route (5.9) and meet up at the P1 anchors. All bolts are shiny 3/8" stainless. You can get down from the top of P2 with a single 60m, we didn't try P3 due to weather.

I found this climb to be aesthetic, on excellent rock, and VERY hard for the grade.

You'll probably just want ~10 QDs and a 2" cam for a horizontal on P2. Aug 29, 2011
Don Ferris III
Eldorado Springs
  5.11a PG13
Don Ferris III   Eldorado Springs
  5.11a PG13
I think the description might be a bit misleading.

The first pitch is 11a off the ground and only 10a with a spot of 10c near the top. Not a very hard pitch if your calves can take it.

Pitch 2 is what I would call the psychological crux with sustained 10b/c climbing in between well-spaced bolts. To me, this was the most difficult and taxing pitch.

Pitch 3 was similar in difficulty to pitch 1 without the off the ground crux. Pretty cruiser with much closer spaced bolts.

Overall, I would not say VERY hard for the grade. To me, 11a seemed right on the money. Don't be scared. Oct 18, 2015
I did this route yesterday. I have a few clarifications to make.

To the poster who said he could get down from the second pitch with a single 60m: I'm guessing he has a 70 and didn't realize it. The middle mark of my nearly new (uncut) bicolor 60 was probably 25' off the belay by the time my partner got to the second belay. Unless he's talking about leaving gear on one of the bolts or downclimbing, no you can't get off with a 60m.

You can get off the first pitch with a 60m.

If you top out, you need 2 ropes. We didn't bring 2, and one person ended up doing a single fixed rope rappel to the ground, who then ran to the packs and grabbed the tag line and tied it on. I then hauled it up and did a standard double rope rap to the ground. It's about 195' from the anchor. It's about 175' if you swing over to the obvious chains that are atop the 11d slab route. I'd suggest this as it makes the rope pull smooth.

Other comments:
P1 is hard at the 1st bolt and serves as a mental warm up for crystal pinching. This pitch has nice new bolts.
P2 is the real crux from a sustained and bold point of view. It's hands down the most aesthetic on the route and is simply a gorgeous pitch. It also offers the only chance to place pro anywhere on the route, one or two pieces at the top of the horizontal. We used a red Alien and #1 BD doubled up. A #2 or #3 would also fit there. Don't bring a rack, bring a cam. This pitch has 5/16" buttonheads.
P3 has close bolts that are very out of character (thankfully). It's run out on top, but it's very easy climbing, and by that point, you won't care. This pitch has brand new bolts.

The anchor is a rusty mess. The webbing looked OK. I did a 20' rap to set of newer nice chains that made for a much cleaner pull.

Overall, 4 stars for a slab. Jul 6, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
This is a great slab route, although more face climbing on knobs than friction slab.

P2 is a very heads up lead with several ‘no fall’ zones and spaced, old SMC button head bolts. All other bolts and anchors are new, except....

The anchor at the top of P3 is a joke. We slung a chickenhead to back up the rusted Star drives and sun bleached webbing and rapped 20 ft climber's left to a brand new anchor, as mentioned in the above post.

I would recommend this route to a solid 5.10+ South Platte slab climber. Dec 17, 2018