Avg: 3.9 from 21 votes
|Type:||Trad, 380 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Noel Childs, Kirk Miller, Roger "Strappo" Hughes|
|Page Views:||5,098 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Heiser on May 25, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1. 11a. Climb directly up to the first bolt on the west side of the arete (crux). After pulling around the arete onto the south-facing slab the fun begins. 80 or 90 feet of sustained face climbing on impeccable feldspar crystals with another 10c crux at about 75 feet. This pitch is very sustained at the 10a level. Belay on a nice flat ledge with two bolts.
P2. 10b. Up to the first bolt past a couple of ledges (I used gear here) to the base of the arete. Up the arete (crux) on amazing crystal pinching and arete hugging. The climbing eases of after a bit and climbs past several more bolts to another nice ledge with a two bolt belay.
P3. 10b. I found this to be the phsycological crux of the route. This is the old pitch 3 of TB Buttress. I have vivid memories of the scariness of this thing (maybe I was just off that day ;-) Up the face on more typical very thin lower angle face climb with multiple runouts to the top of the tower. Wheeww.
Walk back to the norh to locate the rappels down the west side of Wigwam.
Classic rock, classic moves, classic position!!
What more can I say ? ;)
Per highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion: you need 2 60m ropes to rappel if you top out.