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Routes in Lightning Rock

Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Grid T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Power Shortage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Circuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Seaver,S.Kimball
Page Views: 990 total, 6/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on May 14, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a multipitch route ascending new territory on Lightning Rock's west face.

P1.Begin west of Short Circuit near the edge of the south face in the righthand of 2 discontinuous dihedrals. Do run out face (5.7R) past a small ledge with a juniper bush. Double sling a flake for pro then up to bolt (3/8"/2.25") at the foot of a white seam. Thin 5.9 finishes the seam, then continue (#2 Camalot) to the pillar top belay of Short Circuit.

P2. Logistically (rope management and viewing the leader), it is best to downclimb west and belay from a Fir in the gully. Climb a left-leaning crack on the vertical west face. Struggle up overhanging, red rock with the help of a wedged block and fight past an offwidth section. More steep and awkward crack climbing leads to a stance where its possible to pull right, around the ridge, to a good belay near Short Circuit.

P3. Finish with that route.

Pitch 2 is a bit dirty, and sports some crusty foot holds, but has good pro and great technical jamming through strenuous, multiple cruxes.

Protection

Bring a large selection to #5 Camalot.

Photos

jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
  5.11b
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
  5.11b
A #5 Camalot actually isn't needed. A double set up to #3 Camalot and one #4 will suffice. Nov 17, 2004