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Routes in Deer Creek Crag

Heart Shaped Box Boulder V2-3 5+
Highwayman, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Horseshoes and Handgrenades TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugular V3 6A
Metallica Monday V8 7B
Paper Planes V7 7A+ PG13
Pimp Chimp's Crimp, The V4 6B
Random V6 V6 7A
Road Less Traveled, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Variety Show TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Westside Connection, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,190 total, 8/month
Shared By: tobias Nitschke on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property? Details

Description

This starts right behind the big cottonwood, and you should stay aware of this same tree as you proceed, cause if you come off on toprope in places you're headed right at it. (Don the hardhat, and tell your belayer to pay attention.) The rock is also questionable in places: two chunks came off as we climbed it, the first of which would have obliterated me (the belayer) if I'd been directly underneath the climber. So, the belayer should stand off to the left, which gives you a better view anyway...

Still want to climb this thing? Take the direct bouldery start up sharp stone, then follow the short crack system before striking up and left at the bulge, about 25 feet up. An alternate would be to continue right with the crack which soon becomes overhanging and probably a bit tougher than the line I've just described.

It is a cool climb, in spite of the little risks involved. This one hasn't been climbed much; there's no chalk evident.

Protection

Chain anchors on top, but you have to look for them. The other sets of anchors here are more obvious. Add long slings to decrease rope drag.

Photos

half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
The anchors for this route look very precarious.... I would be careful using them, and at least back them up. Mar 3, 2009
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The anchors for this route consist of a more modern, bolt hanger and what almost looks like a handmade or just older angle iron boxy hanger. The chains are rusty but probably fine. Use your own slings. May 30, 2007