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Routes in Rock Garden

Big Brett the Baker's Buddy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottom Line, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bust A Move S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
California Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cetus V11 8A
Come A Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Copacetic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Court Jester S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DOA S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Darla Does Buckwheat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fine Young Cannibals S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hanging Garden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I+CN'? S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeremy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jugalicious S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Just Do It S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just Say No to Nancy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ligneous Embracer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ninos y Viejos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Honor Amongst Theives V6 7A
Otto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumping Pockets S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reckoning, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocky Mountain Oysters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rude Mood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shield of Achilles, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slinky + Escalator V11 8A
Super Crack V0 4 R
Team Geritol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terror, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
U2RNXS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallrus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Busted S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Britt
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 13, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

U2RNXS is called the "longest and strangest climb in the Rock Garden" in D'Antonio's book. I'm not sure it's strange, but it is long for a Penitente climb. It does have a variety of different moves on some cool rock though.

To find it, head right from where the Rock Garden access trail ends. The climb is on the left near the mouth of the canyon.

The start has a balancy traverse left, then head up using a system of huge huecos past several clips. The crux comes at you two bolts before the anchor - a crimpy section through a bulge.

Protection

[8] bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

William Mondragon  
  5.11b
8 bolts. Sweet route. May 23, 2012