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Routes in East Walls/Bat Cave

Aquaman S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Boy Wonder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Caped Crusader S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Melange S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Mechanique S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Dave Pegg, Bill Ramsey, Katie Cavicchio
Page Views: 655 total, 4/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 22, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closures from February 15- August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the first route you'll come to in this sector, and climbs a very orange vertical face past 10 bolts. As you round the bend past the second big pillar, you'll head steeply uphill on a slidey scree slope into an alcove with four routes. This is the leftmost route.

Yup, yup, I know, there's a much more famous (and probably much better) Orange Mechanique in Cimai, France (8a), but I couldn't come up with a better name.

The bolts are a little more closely spaced on this one than most Fortress routes due to the stucco-like texture of the rock, which could tear your knees up and elbows up pretty good in a fall. The holds themselves, however, aren't too sharp. This sort of climbs like a Shelf Road route.

Treating the crumbly pockets gently, stretch high for the first bolt, clip a second, then move slightly up and left to the third. Turn a small roof, then onto the orange face, which grows increasingly harder and more technical the higher you get. (It begins to overhang just a bit, too.)

A decent pocket near the arete gives you a shake before the redpoint (pump) crux moving into the grey rock. Climbing on water pockets and grey incuts takes you to the anchors, at the base of a dihedral.

Best done on cool-weather days and with a good, stiff pair of shoes. Sustained.

Protection

12 quickdraws.

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