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5.12a, Trad,  Avg: 3.5 from 37 votes
FA: L. Hamilton and S. Weaver, FFA J.Achey, K.Lugbill
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Wall of the '90s
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details


EDIT: this is actually is named .30-06, and the right crack is Roadrunner.

This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it (about 110' total).

Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.

EDIT: there is no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.

Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering each other.

There are not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin and Naked Kill. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).


Set of stoppers (#6-#12), Set of Aliens, #0.5, (2)#0.75, (2)#1, #2, #3, #3.5/#4 Camalots. Several old pins scatter the route, clip them with caution. QDs, runners. 2 bolt rap anchor.
70m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The upper goodness.
[Hide Photo] The upper goodness.
The anchor now includes SS wire gate carabiners for easy clipping and general purpose use.
[Hide Photo] The anchor now includes SS wire gate carabiners for easy clipping and general purpose use.
John launching into the crux.
[Hide Photo] John launching into the crux.
In the thick of it.
[Hide Photo] In the thick of it.
Putting the finish touches on the crux sequence.
[Hide Photo] Putting the finish touches on the crux sequence.
John vs. the route in a pose down ... no contest John wins.
[Hide Photo] John vs. the route in a pose down ... no contest John wins.
Clipping the pin post crux is a bit pumpy. Trust the pin, and move up quickly.
[Hide Photo] Clipping the pin post crux is a bit pumpy. Trust the pin, and move up quickly.
About to hit the ledge on the left and a solid rest before tackling the short but excellent finishing crack.
[Hide Photo] About to hit the ledge on the left and a solid rest before tackling the short but excellent finishing crack.
The cruxy roof.
[Hide Photo] The cruxy roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Historical note: Steve Weaver and I aided a line on this wall (Roadrunner, I believe; possibly the FA) on July 20, 1969 -- the day Neil Armstrong first stepped on the moon. I like the "Wall of the 90's" name, which for me carries a bit of hidden humor. Feb 24, 2003
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] I'm pretty sure the left-hand crack is Roadrunner. The roof above the slings goes at 12a and the handcrack above it is easier (although pumpy after the strenuous crux). I don't know what the rt.-hand crack is. They're the best lines on that wall though, in my worthless opinion; everything else is kinda weak and overgraded. May 15, 2003
[Hide Comment] Roadrunner has a 2 bolt rap anchor instead of the 3 old pins. Much appreciated. Apr 2, 2004
[Hide Comment] I think that the names Road Runner and 30.06 are reversed. I was with Jeff Achey (around 1980) when he free climbed what is now considered to be Roadrunner. He called it 30.06 because somebody was shooting a rifle nearby while we were climbing. Jeff lead it without trouble and called it 5.11. The crack on the right used to be called Roadrunner (now called 30.06) was climbed often in the 70s and 80s. These routes are both great regardless of what you call them. Apr 29, 2004
[Hide Comment] Rolofson's guide calls out Roadrunner (.11d/.12a) as left crack and 30.06 (.11-) as right crack. FWIW. Apr 30, 2004
[Hide Comment] Lots of bird crap on this one. Also, try doing it in the shade. It felt really greasy in the sun. Apr 16, 2006
[Hide Comment] And Rolofson reversed the name on the newer edition of the guide book. FWIW. Jul 6, 2007
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
[Hide Comment] I watched someone nail up this route 9/15/07. Please do not pound pins in this route or any other established free climb.

Please practice iron-work on any of the multiple road cuts and unknown crags, or aid it cleanly. Sep 16, 2007
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Last night I removed the bail slings and a of the 4 they were connected to. There is only one pin there now. It is solid and had a good ring sound to it. You can back it up with a bomber #8 stopper as well. It is pretty scary this rap anchor was trusted for so long. The ring pin had a crack in it and broke off with a couple hits. The knifeblade was loose and in a hollow sounding block. These pins may be almost 40 years old!

I will not replace these pins; you can get bomber gear in these spots. There does not need to be a fixed anchor at this spot anyway. The route goes well as one pitch (lower off with a 70m from bolt anchors at the top of the crack). If you want to avoid the crux and upper half of the route, you can traverse left under the roof to the Black and Tan anchors.

The protection pins on the rest of the route are still intact and can also be backed up with bomber gear.

Thanks! Hope no one minds. Aug 6, 2008
[Hide Comment] Lots and lots and lots and lots of poop. Would it be better to climb this when the birds are gone or after a month straight of rain? Maybe. Lots of poopie. Fun route. Jul 27, 2010
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I think the rating depends on the recent bird activity in the area. If it's poopy..., 12a or maybe harder (depends on your tolerance). If it's clean, 11+ seems totally fair. With that said, it might be best to climb this route in the early spring, since the pigeons are just coming back and it had the winter to get cleansed with snow.

Great route. Apr 12, 2011
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] The pin at the crux is good, I whipped all over that thing. Aug 1, 2013
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Still pretty new to the area, so may not be qualified to say, but this has got to be one of the better crack climbs in the immediate Front Range! A super fun and sporty sequence halfway up gives you a break between all the bomber jamming. A really nice, long pitch. Feb 28, 2016
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The headwall tight hands splitter is on par with CCC in terms of quality (minus the bird excrement).

I would add a small offset cam or two to back up the crux pin. A purple-blue offset Mastercam should fit perfectly. There are some offset nut placements to the left side which look good but might pop out as you climb above. The crux piton was solid yesterday. I whipped on it. Mar 7, 2016
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] I tested the crux pin with a hammer, and it's solid but was a tad loose. You can back it up with a small offset cam, but it's not a bomber placement. Long term, a bolt placed a bit higher than the pin would be ideal and ensure injury free climbing. Sep 2, 2017
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] Those seeking "Guaranteed-injury-free-climbing" should probably stay in bed. Sep 4, 2017
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The route is mostly poop free, the beat up orange Alien is gone, and the crux pins can be backed up by no less than 4 good pieces of gear within a few feet:
Yellow and blue alloy offset nuts, 0.5 C4, #1 C4.

Some of the best Front Range crack climbing outside of the Platte on the headwall splitter. Apr 2, 2018