Avg: 3.5 from 37
FA: L. Hamilton and S. Weaver, FFA J.Achey, K.Lugbill
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Wall of the '90s
EDIT: this is actually is named .30-06, and the right crack is Roadrunner
This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it (about 110' total).
Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.
EDIT: there is no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.
Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering each other.
There are not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin
and Naked Kill
. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).
Set of stoppers (#6-#12), Set of Aliens, #0.5, (2)#0.75, (2)#1, #2, #3, #3.5/#4 Camalots. Several old pins scatter the route, clip them with caution. QDs, runners. 2 bolt rap anchor.