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Slab-a-dab-a-doo

5.10-, Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 12 votes
FA: Allison Brown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Ironclads > Ironsides

Description

Not a bomb... but not a star....

To the right of the main section of the Ironsides exists a moderate route with some weird slab moves. The route can be climbed with just the bolts, but a few placements make it safe, and make the crux more comfy.

Climb the slab past 2 roofs with a couple moves of 9 around the first roof, and move of 10- past the second. I remember placing a good piece at the second crux. Clip one last bolt, and veer right to the anchor.

80' rap.

Protection

6 bolts, and a few pro placements.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ironsides<br>
<br>
1) Left of Left of Portside, 5.6.<br>
2) Left of Portside, 5.7.<br>
3) Portside, 5.6.<br>
4) Fire Window/Gypsies in the Palace, 5.8 or 5.10b.<br>
5) Welcome to Dystopia, 5.10c/d.<br>
6) High Seas, 5.11c/d.<br>
7) Alloy Madness 5.10d<br>
8) Life Raft 5.11a<br>
9) Slab-a-Dab-a-Doo, 5.10a.<br>
10) Nuts Not Bolts, 5.11a R.<br>
11) Double Hung, 5.9+.<br>
12) Void Where Prohibited, 5.11a (on right wall of gully).<br>
13) Unknown, 5.8.<br>
14) Repeat Offender, 5.8.
[Hide Photo] Ironsides 1) Left of Left of Portside, 5.6. 2) Left of Portside, 5.7. 3) Portside, 5.6. 4) Fire Window/Gypsies in the Palace, 5.8 or 5.10b. 5) Welcome to Dystopia, 5.10c/d. 6) High Seas, 5.…
I thought this route was much better than the description indicated. Unfortunately, it is a bit dirty, and the anchor is in an odd location, but it has excellent movement.
[Hide Photo] I thought this route was much better than the description indicated. Unfortunately, it is a bit dirty, and the anchor is in an odd location, but it has excellent movement.
At the crux, trying to decide exactly where to step over the roof. Although the roof is the crux, it's pretty dicey higher up at the trad section.
[Hide Photo] At the crux, trying to decide exactly where to step over the roof. Although the roof is the crux, it's pretty dicey higher up at the trad section.
Luke reaching for, presumably, a jam below the crux roof.
[Hide Photo] Luke reaching for, presumably, a jam below the crux roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This didn't seem significantly easier than Fire Widow. Maybe we were getting tired. You climb right of the bolts at the bottom and left of the bolts up high. The bolts up high may be to the right of the line so as to be in better rock. You'll want at least a yellow and green Alien or equivalent for the long and non-trivial runout from the 5th to the 6th bolt. Aug 28, 2005
Umph!
 
[Hide Comment] Another good climb on good stone. 5.10b seems like an honest rating for most (10c if you're shorter). I didn't use gear for placements between the bolts (would've been happy to have used them), but did wonder at a few of the bolt placements. Why this route didn't continue up to an in-line rap station is beyond my understanding. . . other than that it was a fun climb.
103 degrees today down below, but we were loving it at 80 with some clouds, and even received a little rain! Jul 16, 2006