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Routes in Northern Dinosaur Egg

Cloud Walker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rescratch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 370 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ?J. Gunter & L. Paik
Page Views: 62 total · 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is just one of those lines that is obscure but is sort just asking to be climbed when perusing R. Rossiter's Flatirons guidebook, p 106. It lies on the East face parallel & just North (right) of Rehatch. It's probably a route only for the Dinosaur Mt. fans looking for yet another line. It is a bit rough around the edges. Precarious flakes along the way suggested few, if any, prior passages. It looks harder than it turns out to be.

Hike from NCAR to the Mesa Trail. Head South to Bear Canyon trail. Hop across the creek at the base of South Dinosaur Egg (just above the 2nd waterfall, springtime) and curve around the East face of North Dinosaur Egg. Come to the 3rd class approach to Rehatch, and start below a small overhang.

P1. Work up a small slab at an alcove, moving left to a good stance below the small overhang. Place a large cam and bear hug a large knob on the left, weird 5.7. Follow a low angle groove to a belay below a chockstone. #0.75 & 3 Camalots are useful for the belay, 190 feet.

P2. Head up, place an Alien, and then go left on a friable slab to the overhang. Bear hug your way up to a good ledge, strenuous 5.7. Decipher the crux above with a good #1 Camalot. It has rough rock here. Heave up into the groove. Follow it with an occasional jaunt left. Near the top, follow a groove off right to the summit, 180 feet.

Move briefly West to the 40m rap (bolt & pin). This can be done with a 30m rap & 4th class downclimb on the slab. Watch the rope on the pull.

Protection

Mostly single cams, black Alien to #4 Camalot, lots of longs slings.

Photos

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It seems odd this doesn't see more traffic. Did Rescratch on a beautiful February afternoon and, despite an unintended variation to start, found it pretty good. Easy if not short approach and interesting climbing. The crux was more entertaining than Satan's Slab and only a touch harder. Not a destination route, but a good dose of variety and adventure on mostly untouched rock.

We started well left of what the current beta photo indicates, slabbing our way onto the ledge from the beginning of what must be the Rehatch chimney. This made for a spicy first 20 feet, but that's typical for the Flatirons in my experience. There are easier options.

Those who fear runouts on easy terrain may want to bring more gear than we did. In particular, I left the hexes behind but could have certainly placed them. I don't remember tons of placement options in the upper gully for anything save big pieces, but I wasn't really looking. Feb 15, 2015