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Routes in Metropolis Sector

Blood Dries Darker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Captain Confusion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metropolis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shazam S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Bill Launder, Bill Ramsey
Page Views: 1,478 total, 8/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 7, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closures from February 15- August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route was originally named "The Fuck-up," partially after the book by Arthur Nessarian, as, coming down off the anchors, I'd inadvertently bolted the blank-ass line to the right instead of this, a more obvious line up a weakness/water streak. Captain Confusion is a nice way of saying I effed up. Either way, this is a great route.

This striking line climbs up the gently overhanging white streak through the lower bit of the wall that, once over the lip, becomes a black streak. The rock is water-hardened, clean and not subject to any Fortress Dust nonsense.

This climb is three routes -- or 50 feet -- left of Metropolis (Metropolis; Shazam; open project with a fixed draw or two; Captain Confusion). Scramble up onto a ledge (careful--it's shaley!) and traverse right past a bolt with a camoflauged hanger to the base of a small offset corner. Either leave a long sling on the traverse bolt to offset rope drag, or unclip and just go into the second bolt.

The rock crests over you like a wave--very steep but pretty good holds. Bouldery moves gain a kneescum against a pillar/flake followed by a definite crux and more sustained climbing to a good resting hole at 80 feet. Another couple of cruxes above this at the base of the smooth corner take you onto the headwall (5.11/11+), which may be a bit sandy but has good, positive edges overall. End at a hueco.

Protection

14-15 quickdraws, one long sling, and a 70-meter rope (mandatory).

Photos

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Sick route, Matt. There is now a rope ladder in place to get to the route. Feb 10, 2016