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The Buick

5.10a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 12 votes
FA: Paul Piana and Jeff Achey?
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > Buick Rocks & Hitler'…
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Description

This is the first crack around the corner from the Green Slab. Although short, it is very steep and has some fun, sporty moves.

Jam and edge up the angling crack system until it is possible to traverse around to the anchors for Green Slab, or set up an anchor and escape to the right.

Protection

A few wires and cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up "The Buick".
[Hide Photo] Starting up "The Buick".
Buick follows the cracks on the left.
[Hide Photo] Buick follows the cracks on the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Juth
Ridgway, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The wires are for the anchor, have hand sized cams for the climb, with a size larger for the bottom, and a few smaller for the middle. It's also a great toprope from the Green Slab anchors. Apr 18, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route but quite strenuous. It is a fun TR after Green Slab. It would be quite a bit more difficult for me to lead than Green Slab due to the pumpy nature. Mar 6, 2005
Amos Patrick
Estes Park
 
[Hide Comment] Fun lead, too bad it is so short. I did not use any wires but stopped at the bolts for Green Slab. Pretty strenuous but you can have gear anywhere you want it. Aug 13, 2009
Paul Piana
[Hide Comment] I believe I led this with Jeff Achey. I led (with Jeff) next to it on the squeezed overhanging but short wall. Apr 6, 2022