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Routes in The Monkey Skull

Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Casual Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fever Dance T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fringe Dweller T,S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hollow Be Thy Name T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking for Trouble T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Monkey Trial T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripple S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skull and Bones S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summit Block T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Upside The Cranium S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Alvino Pon and Joseph Grubb, 2003.
Page Views: 1,100 total · 6/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Aug 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the bolted route to the left of Sunshine Dihedral. It is mentioned in the comments sections for the SSV and Monkey Skull.

There are a couple cruxes in the 10/10- range. The 10c crux is a bit of a one or two move wonder with a possible fall into a bush and some poison ivy (might go up your shorts!). This move is just before the traverse around the corner.

The route is a little spicy, dirty, and contrived on the last half.

The route is over 100 feet so a short down climb or a rap off other anchors is necessary.

Protection

12 draws. A few small and medium pieces can be placed.

Photos

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Though I suppose it could be avoided, that poison ivy bush about half way up has got to go. I caught a bad case from it. Apr 8, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
Climbed it again yesterday. One move wonder not two. If you go straight up instead of veering right, it felt like a move of 10+/11-. Apr 29, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The poison ivy bush is looking really healthy this year, it is giant! I gave up TRing this route after realizing the easiest way to climb it was very near the bush. This year if you fall there you could go right into it (on lead or TR). Jun 18, 2005
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
We rapped this route with a 60m, the rope ends just as you reach the ground. Lowering off after leading could be hazardous, however, as this takes a bit more rope ... Jun 20, 2005
Mike Robinson
Moab, UT
  5.10-
Mike Robinson   Moab, UT
  5.10-
I would say that going strieght up in line with the bolts makes this a solid 11. The route is ok, but going left to the piton is a better variation. Jun 19, 2007
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
I was on this route for the second time in 4 days today.
There appears to be some exfoliated flakes that have come off of the crux of this pitch. Blasting straight up the bolt line was *wicked* hard at 11/12ish. While a bit contrived, the route can be held at the grade by climbing into the dihedral for a short bit, but you risk a face full of Poison Ivy. Which is worth noting....the Poison Ivy is extremely lush this year due to all of the rain we've been having.
~John Jun 15, 2009
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c/d
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c/d
Really that's poison ivy? The route wanders, but it is still a good time. Going straight up at the crux is hard, some exfoliation has occurred. Oct 4, 2009
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
I was all over this face! The obvious easy moves at the crux puts you on the biggest poison ivy patch I've ever seen on a route. (Somebody should bring some Round-Up up there, which would improve two routes!) So, I down-climbed several bolts and headed out left past the pins on Monkey Trial but didn't bring any small nuts, so then I went down around the flake (further left) and up to a bolt on Hollow Be Thy Name; then cut back right onto Monkey Trial, to a bolt, then down and back-cleaned the bolt off Hollow... and continued to the top. There's clearly been some exfoliation near the crux of Skull and Bones. (Or maybe I'm lame.) No falls, serious run out the way I did it, but interesting route finding [avoiding 2 cruxes on 2 seperate climbs] on good rock. Maybe a bit disappointing technically, but I had fun and not much harder than 10a R? [Moral: Bring Round-Up, small/med nuts and wear long pants.] Aug 24, 2010
eddie b  
PLEASE DO NOT USE ROUNDUP!
Thank you. Sep 7, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
^^^ What is a better substitute? Jun 22, 2014
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.11a
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.11a
This is definitely 11- if you don't bail over to the right. A 0.4 and #2 would be good to bring, but they are not necessary. Jun 21, 2018

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