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Routes in Lone Pine Tree Wall

Guys with Guns T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lone Pine Tree Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Pine Tree Left T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lone Pine Tree Right T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,877 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This route is on the face furthest left on the east side of No Name Creek. It is down and to the left of the Pink Face. It is the direct line up to a lone pine tree anchor (hence the inventive name) which is reached by an easy fifth class move off of the trail up to a spacious belay ledge. The splitter line straight up from the ledge has some great thin hand crack moves. Some insecure thin hands can make this route a challenge for gear placement; I wouldn't recommend it for a first 5.10 lead. Great afternoon sun exposure.

Protection

Standard granite rack (it really eats up stoppers).

Photos

Mike Bannister
  5.10
Mike Bannister  
  5.10
Fun. Slightly flared finger locks and a couple edges to help out. The wasps weren't too bad the other day, I only had to chase two out of the crack and they left me alone. I was able to sew it up excessively well with small cams and a couple tiny nuts. Which isn't a bad idea considering that you're kinda close to that ledge. Sep 3, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.10
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.10
Yeah Jeremy, there are often wasps in that area which are quiet and relatively unseen when it is cold or shady, but when it's sunny and warm out they come out. Sometimes it can be a little adventure tiptoeing around the wasps when they are hanging out in the cracks on a chill day. Nov 19, 2012
Jeremy Joseph
Glenwood Springs, CO
Jeremy Joseph   Glenwood Springs, CO
So, I got chased off the wall by wasps after placing one piece of gear. Went back after the sun went off the wall, and they were gone. So watch out for them in fall! Led the route after a few times top roping over the previous year. Placed lots of smaller cams and one big stopper. Felt a lot easier on lead then top roping for some reason...maybe a good day. Led it in twilight as the sun was going down in early november. Nov 8, 2012
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
5.10+ PG13
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
5.10+ PG13
Tried to onsight this today and had my ass handed to me. Fell on a small RP, hang dogged, ran it out, and thought I was gonna take the biggest whip of my life. Hard to place the gear on this one, humbled. May 5, 2012
Super fun, I wussed out and tr'ed this one but wish to lead it next time. When the crack disappears, you gain great edges to keep it from getting to gnarly. Did I mention finger locking goodness? Apr 28, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Got hailed off this yesterday and had to leave a bail nut and biner. Also while cleaning I could not for the life of me get a shallow RP out of the seam about where it turns tricky. Sorry about making this more of a sport climb :(

Someone go up there and grab those! Jun 8, 2009