Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Adams and T. Anderson
Page Views: 2,252 total · 12/month
Shared By: richard magill on Feb 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Description

This is between "Real Men of Genius" and "The Adultress" is "The Fornicator".

It is an excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt. The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex. This is difficult to onsight but not so bad if you know where you are going.

After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big, juggy huecoes (10+).

The route doesn't quite pack the multiple crux punch of "Real Men of Genius", but it is pretty sweet.

Protection

A dozen bolts to anchors.

Photos

Nate Adams
  5.11c
Nate Adams  
  5.11c
From a purely objective, unbiased standpoint, this gets my nomination for Best Route in the Universe. Three stars, baby! Feb 19, 2004
Wow! Spectacular line! We sure don't have routes like this in Kansas! Mar 15, 2004
Nate Adams
  5.11c
Nate Adams  
  5.11c
I noticed my prior star rating didn't get averaged with Tod and Rich. Mar 15, 2004
Holy cow! Amazing! Mar 15, 2004
gumbi
 
gumbi  
 
A bit crowded, but a great line. Kudos to the installers' obvious genius. Mar 15, 2004
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
A runner is nice on the third to last bolt. Dec 16, 2006
Chrissy Crushes
Boulder, CO
Chrissy Crushes   Boulder, CO
Or just skip the third to last bolt (accidentally...). Apr 4, 2017
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11d
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11d
I recommend stick clipping the 1st bolt. Mar 3, 2018