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Routes in Gray Face area

Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Side of Gray Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Thin Crack Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,403 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is located immediately to the left of the Jungle Book. It is a right-arching crack splitting the large gray practice slab. Start in the alcove in the center of the slab reaching up to the finger slots. After the crux move (the start is maybe a wee bit harder than 5.8), jam and lieback the ever-widening crack. Following the crack up and to the right on a ledge brings you the anchors of the Jungle Book. Two variations exist on the top. 1st variation: (5.10) Follow the right arching crack up until it is possible to move left with face moves into a small finger crack. A few sweet ring locks bring you to anchors on which you may top rope the slab. 2nd variation: (5.10) Top the crack out to the ledge with the Jungle Book anchors. Continue up an additional twenty feet in the sweet hand to fist crack; top out on the diving board, walk back ten feet, and rap off of black Metolius anchors.

The slab to the left of the climb is often top roped by the anchors of the first variation. There exists a number of good face moves on edges (5.9). The anchors may be reached by some fifth class scrambling around the corner to the left, near the start of the pink face.

Protection

Standard granite rack.

Location

Per Jeremy Joseph: it is located on the CMC Wall. It is the middle crack just to the left of the Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack).

Photos

If you're a fan of gently overhanging handcracks, the top crack is not to be missed. Bummer it's not longer. Sep 3, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
New glue-in anchor with stainless links and rings added last year courtesy of hardware from the ASCA. Jun 14, 2013
Jay Austin  
 
This is an awesome climb at what the guidebook says is 110 ft to the top which is what I like to do. 5.9 to the big block at the top with a crux at the start and probably a 5.10- move at the top. There are anchors and the very top of the climb now. Highly recommended. Aug 1, 2012
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.9
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  5.9
Super quality for sure! Lead it yesterday in my approach shoes. Ran out the middle section big time (it's mellow). The upper block is probly the best part of the whole route. 5.9 ought to be about right. Jul 7, 2011
TylerVaughan Vaughan
Glenwood Springs, Colorado
  5.9
TylerVaughan Vaughan   Glenwood Springs, Colorado
  5.9
I think the top block goes at .9+ or .10- for a few spicy moves. Makes for one of the longer and better climbs in the canyon. Apr 12, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Last year someone added a bolted anchor to the top of the upper block, what Bryan has described here as the second variation. Now, you can do the "complete" climb and lower with a 70 meter rope. Apr 26, 2008
Spinalflow
Sugarhouse , Utah
  5.9
Spinalflow   Sugarhouse , Utah
  5.9
Watch out for rattlesnakes! Sep 14, 2007
Jami S Mohlenkamp   Colorado
I am a novice/intermediate leader. The beginning was definitely the crux for me, and I didn't place as much pro as I should have. After finishing the crack, you top out on a small ledge where you traverse left around an arete to the anchors (I used the upper anchors, not the ones at my feet to limit rope drag over the edge; my second didn't follow me up). This arete traverse has some crazy exposure, and I protected it with a #2 cam at the right of the ledge prior to venturing left on the traverse. Sep 7, 2006