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Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)

5.7, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 40 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Glenwood Canyon > No Name Canyon > E Side > Gray Face area

Description

Many a Roaring Fork tradster got their teeth sharpened on this open book corner; the old timers refered to it as the Graduation Crack. Leading this crack was the graduation lead to become a climber. An excellent first lead, the Jungle Book is found on the east side of No Name Creek, the furthest right corner of the Pink Face and Lone Pine Tree climbs. It is immediately to the right of a right arching crack in a large grey slab. Begin in a corner with a few stemming chimney moves to a ledge. Continue up the open book corner to Metolius rap anchors at about seventy feet. If you have any size of gear you can probably place it; the upper portion can use either large gear or slings around chockstones, or you can solo it in your approach shoes to retrieve lost gear from beginners.

Protection

A standard granite rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jungle Book. Nice climb. Plenty of pro to be had.
[Hide Photo] Jungle Book. Nice climb. Plenty of pro to be had.
Approach to Jungle Book when leaving the access road.  Very steep!  We rapped down.
[Hide Photo] Approach to Jungle Book when leaving the access road. Very steep! We rapped down.
© Jason Kaplan. Nick Broeder free solo.
[Hide Photo] © Jason Kaplan. Nick Broeder free solo.
East side climbs of No Name Creek.
[Hide Photo] East side climbs of No Name Creek.
A look at Jungle Book on the way back down.
[Hide Photo] A look at Jungle Book on the way back down.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] 5.7. Apr 20, 2004
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, good warm up. I agree with the 5.7. We were overly eager and tried to scramble up the steep trail at the base of this climb. It proved a chore, 2 steps forward, slid one back down. We went back down and continued up the Jess Weaver approach trail 40 more feet and found a nice trail that leads to the base with a rope for the steepest portion. Sep 7, 2006
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I probably wouldn't put someone on this for their first lead. The last 20 feet or so are really chossy, chunky and loose. The corner right of the pink wall would be a much safer alternative. Sep 12, 2009
Jay Austin
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb, especially for beginners. I would rate it at 5.7, I've led this climb 6 times or so and feel it's great practice for gear placement and crack climbing. I usually take up larger gear from BD 0.75 to maybe even a 4 and a small nut. A must do for beginning trad leaders at No Name. May 31, 2012
[Hide Comment] I can't recommend this to new leaders. Awkward climbing, weird placements, and some loose and crumbly rock. Not a bad climb by any means but definitely not a first (or second!) lead. Great, easy, adventure climbing double-v crack practice. Aug 22, 2013