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Routes in Gray Face area

Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Side of Gray Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Thin Crack Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,523 total, 22/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Many a Roaring Fork tradster got their teeth sharpened on this open book corner; the old timers refered to it as the Graduation Crack. Leading this crack was the graduation lead to become a climber. An excellent first lead, the Jungle Book is found on the east side of No Name Creek, the furthest right corner of the Pink Face and Lone Pine Tree climbs. It is immediately to the right of a right arching crack in a large grey slab. Begin in a corner with a few stemming chimney moves to a ledge. Continue up the open book corner to Metolius rap anchors at about seventy feet. If you have any size of gear you can probably place it; the upper portion can use either large gear or slings around chockstones, or you can solo it in your approach shoes to retrieve lost gear from beginners.

Protection

A standard granite rack.
Mike Bannister  
5.7+
I can't recommend this to new leaders. Awkward climbing, weird placements, and some loose and crumbly rock. Not a bad climb by any means but definitely not a first (or second!) lead. Great, easy, adventure climbing double-v crack practice. Aug 22, 2013
Jay Austin
  5.7
Jay Austin  
  5.7
This is a great climb, especially for beginners. I would rate it at 5.7, I've led this climb 6 times or so and feel it's great practice for gear placement and crack climbing. I usually take up larger gear from BD 0.75 to maybe even a 4 and a small nut. A must do for beginning trad leaders at No Name. May 31, 2012
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.7
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.7
I probably wouldn't put someone on this for their first lead. The last 20 feet or so are really chossy, chunky and loose. The corner right of the pink wall would be a much safer alternative. Sep 12, 2009
Jami S Mohlenkamp   Colorado
Fun climb, good warm up. I agree with the 5.7. We were overly eager and tried to scramble up the steep trail at the base of this climb. It proved a chore, 2 steps forward, slid one back down. We went back down and continued up the Jess Weaver approach trail 40 more feet and found a nice trail that leads to the base with a rope for the steepest portion. Sep 7, 2006
5.7. Apr 20, 2004