Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 2,276 total · 13/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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Access Issue: The Kingpin Boulder is closed to climbing Details


Located on the Hank's Boulder, between Scarface and Hank's Arete. Start low on a good sidepull crimp with your right hand and the left hand uses one of the starting edges of Scarface. Move straight up to incredibly small crimps on the black face and then to the sloper rail.

Skipping the start by jumping from the ground to the sloper rail makes this a fun V3.


Pad, flat landing.


Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Just a thought regarding this problem. I'm working it from a sit-start below the previous RH starting edge with LH on a gaston, RH crimp. Cross over to the old start hold and do the problem. This sit-start adds a bit to the difficulty by making the set-up for the first lock off more complicated. It also makes the problem complete from the ground. I'd like to know what others think. Apr 19, 2004
I think you are a bit fruity.... Apr 19, 2004
Peter, Daniel Woods is working it from a sit start on the far left arete (start of One Ton Ho) traversing through the bottom of Scarface then up The Fuck You Finger, finishing up and right. He was one move from hitting the sloper rail then gave it a rest. He thinks it will be V12 easily, and maybe V13. Apr 19, 2004
Actually, the name came about when Luke Parady was working the project and ripped his middle finger on the incredibly sharp crimps. It is aptly named. Apr 20, 2004
I think that doing the original problem is the only way to make it non-contrived. The variations above are simply that, variations that happen to be VERY contrived. I for one would not put a rating or name on something so contrived or even work on something just for the #. It makes it less appealing. My 2 cents. Apr 29, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Since when was a true sit-start contrived? Now I can start working Nuthin' but Sunshine from the stand and call it good. Apr 29, 2004
If AC knew Peter Beal, he would know he is NOT working this problem from a TRUE sit-start solely for the #. Admittedly, he asked what other people think, but couldn't you just say its contrived and leave it at that?

Plenty of us think "complicated" contrived variations are fun, me included. Apr 29, 2004
Peter, you can do anything you please and call it good...if you climb for yourself. Apr 29, 2004
No, contrived means that from your sit start position, you could go right into Hank's Arete, left into Scarface, or up into the F you Finger. Very much less apealing. Don't ask if you dont want others opinions. May 5, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
The discussion above is now irrelevant since the "start" hold is apparently gone. But there are other options.... Sep 13, 2004