Avg: 3.2 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m)|
|FA:||John Rosholt & Phil Broscovak 1976|
|Page Views:||796 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||phil broscovak on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Angel Dust is the splitter hand and finger crack that runs straight up the middle of PCP Pinnacle. Clearly visible in the photo as well as from the road, it is the most prominent feature on the wall. There are two ways to finish this climb. The splitter crack ends at a horizontal ledge about 25 feet from the summit. The standard and easier finish traverses left on this ledge about 15 feet and then goes up a delightful and well-protected, right-leaning hand crack. This way goes at solid 5.7. The direct and much more difficult finish goes virtually straight up the steep wall at the end of the splitter crack. This variation has little or no pro and is solid hard 5.10. It is easy to toprope but daring to lead. The crux of the regular route comes about halfway up at a rattly flake inside the crack. It is a thoughtful spot. Still the pro is mostly superb and the rock enjoyable.
This is a well worth it route. Together with the "Mirror Crack" on Rosy Lane Wall, these two routes well exemplify the unusual qualities of Taylor Canyon climbing.