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Routes in Backstage Wall

Best Boy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Gaffer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Juth / Paul Findley / Bernard Gillett 12/03
Page Views: 33 total, 0/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Dec 23, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the right bolted route in the backstage. Climb up onto ramp and pull right on to a bizarre slab. Follow this up to bolt four, reach past the crux (tall is good), and trend left to the roof. Avoid the flakes to the right of bolt 5 and 6 as they are hollow. Run it out (for now) across easy slab (20 feet)and clip the final bolt. Pull out the roof through a fun finger crack (you can place a piece from a good stance) to the anchors.

Other than the currently runout section, the majority of the moves are in the 9/9+ range. It's a little dirty right now from a large flake I removed. As it cleans up it will be worthy of 2 stars.

Protection

7 Bolts currently (one more will be installed between 6 and 7).

A medium TCU (Yellow) can be placed just before the top.

Photos

It cleaned up nicely from the last snow. The new bolt isn't there, but would be nice. Jan 11, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
Be carefull making the last clip untill I get the new bolt in. Dec 24, 2003