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Routes in East Side Wall

Maximus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peanut Gallery S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spartacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Nate Adams
Page Views: 950 total, 6/month
Shared By: richard magill on Nov 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a great line on the west-facing monolith at the Arena!

This line is fairly easy to spot. Looking at the west-facing wall (on the left as you come into the Arena), there is a slabby section that rises to a spot where the wall then gets steep. Just right of this slab is a section of wall that is steep all the way. Maximus follows this steep portion. It goes up a section of slightly overhanging red stone that is pretty obvious, about 80 feet long.

Starts fun and leads up to a section with a tough undercling. Work your feet high and match on a high left rail. Smear on the wall on poor feet and lunge left to a good hold. This section is the crux, probably 11d/12a.

Continue up to the last bolt and a tricky 11c finish.

Photo below is Nate Adams nearing the anchors of Maximus. He is actually on an easier left hand route that comes to the same anchors.

Beautiful stone!

Protection

12 bolts.

Photos

slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Super fun route. Would be a very good first 12a as it is well protected and there are no brutal moves on it, just nice continuous climbing. A couple clips might be a tiny bit reachy if you are short, but you could probably climb the route to the left and hang the draws. It seemed like the clipping was all from good stances, nothing too weird. A couple of the flakes are a bit thin, but nothing broke when I did it. Jun 17, 2013