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Routes in East Side

Lions and Christians S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strength & Honor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rich Magill
Page Views: 62 total, 0/month
Shared By: richard magill on Nov 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a short warmup in the middle of the giant tower on the right side of the arena. The route is about 55 feet - it looks miniscule since it only goes a third of the way up the tower. A second pitch may be added in the future. Above the anchors, the wall goes quite blank - the potential second pitch here will be sick thin. The route starts off slightly overhanging on good rock with big holds.The first clip is a little spooky but reasonable - bring a stick clip if you want to avoid being scared.

3 or 4 bolts of nice 10a climbing lead to a reachy 10+ section that diagonals up and left, culiminating with some of the most incredible chickenhead grips I've ever pulled on.

From here, begin an 11a sequence (maybe a shade harder than most 11a moves) on small holds involving some high stepping and good footwork.

It is really fun - if it were only longer, I would have said 3 stars.

Protection

7 bolts to a coldshut anchor.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11a
Rich, I understand your comment concerning the length of the route, but even though the route is only 55 feet, the climbing is pretty fun for the whole way. In particular, the first 3-5 bolts are quite fun...not unreasonable at 2-3 stars.

That said, the bolts on this thing need some love. I didn't have my wrench with me, so I could not deal with it myself, but folks should know that there are at least two bolts that for sure have spinner hangers...and one of them might even be completely loose (including the sleeve). Oct 10, 2012