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Routes in Narrows Proper

Art of Breaking, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cantaloupe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cement Garden, The T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Chiroptophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Choss Ninja S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fudge Judge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other People's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
PWTHFRWDLGS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
People's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Rebolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Faction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Screwheads S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sloppy Seconds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snap, Crackle, Pop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village Idiot, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra
Page Views: 1,785 total, 10/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 5, 2003
Admins: Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun route that, at a full 30 meters long, has plenty of varied climbing in its length. As you enter the corridor, walking uphill toward the hump, you'll notice a very clean, glassy wall (The Cement Garden, 5.13) on your left. The 5.10a Crack is just past this glassy panel, and is the long, semi-diagonalling (right to left) crack line splitting the buttress about 15 feet left of a junky corner.

Climb somewhat silty moves off the deck in a faint corner, then step left onto a sloping ledge. From here, the route is obvious: Stay in the crack, taking care with some of the wedged chockstones. A thin-hands crux through a slight bulge gets you to the upper section, nice 5.9+ crack/face climbing on solid rock, protected by nuts and TCUs. Bust a final move to stand up at the base of a clean corner and reach left to a double-bolt anchor with slings. You can use this anchor to toprope The Cement Garden, the 5.13 that climbs the aforementioned Glassy Panel.

A 60-meter rope is mandatory.

Protection

Standard rack, with an emphasis on thin-hand-sized cams, and a couple of 3-4" pieces.

Photos

JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
Very fun movement. 2 stars due to junky rock in spots. Highly recommend anyway, just saying don't expect splitter stone, and I provisionally disagree on singles. If badass, singles. If not, dubs. Jul 28, 2013
It was great, and a single rack from green c3 to a #5 is way more than enough to zip this climb up and have a few extra cams. Jun 2, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The name of this route is Jenga Buttress Crack. It is excellent. Oct 4, 2007