Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack
Avg: 3 from 24 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra|
|Page Views:||1,816 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Jul 5, 2003|
|Admins:||Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a fun route that, at a full 30 meters long, has plenty of varied climbing in its length. As you enter the corridor, walking uphill toward the hump, you'll notice a very clean, glassy wall (The Cement Garden, 5.13) on your left. The 5.10a Crack is just past this glassy panel, and is the long, semi-diagonalling (right to left) crack line splitting the buttress about 15 feet left of a junky corner.
Climb somewhat silty moves off the deck in a faint corner, then step left onto a sloping ledge. From here, the route is obvious: Stay in the crack, taking care with some of the wedged chockstones. A thin-hands crux through a slight bulge gets you to the upper section, nice 5.9+ crack/face climbing on solid rock, protected by nuts and TCUs. Bust a final move to stand up at the base of a clean corner and reach left to a double-bolt anchor with slings. You can use this anchor to toprope The Cement Garden, the 5.13 that climbs the aforementioned Glassy Panel.
A 60-meter rope is mandatory.