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Routes in Narrows Proper

Art of Breaking, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cantaloupe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cement Garden, The T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Chiroptophobia T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choss Ninja S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fudge Judge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other People's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
PWTHFRWDLGS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
People's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Rebolt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Faction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Screwheads S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sloppy Seconds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snap, Crackle, Pop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village Idiot, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra
Page Views: 1,888 total · 10/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 5, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun route that, at a full 30 meters long, has plenty of varied climbing in its length. As you enter the corridor, walking uphill toward the hump, you'll notice a very clean, glassy wall (The Cement Garden, 5.13) on your left. The 5.10a Crack is just past this glassy panel, and is the long, semi-diagonalling (right to left) crack line splitting the buttress about 15 feet left of a junky corner.

Climb somewhat silty moves off the deck in a faint corner, then step left onto a sloping ledge. From here, the route is obvious: Stay in the crack, taking care with some of the wedged chockstones. A thin-hands crux through a slight bulge gets you to the upper section, nice 5.9+ crack/face climbing on solid rock, protected by nuts and TCUs. Bust a final move to stand up at the base of a clean corner and reach left to a double-bolt anchor with slings. You can use this anchor to toprope The Cement Garden, the 5.13 that climbs the aforementioned Glassy Panel.

A 60-meter rope is mandatory.

Protection

Standard rack, with an emphasis on thin-hand-sized cams, and a couple of 3-4" pieces.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The name of this route is Jenga Buttress Crack. It is excellent. Oct 4, 2007
It was great, and a single rack from green c3 to a #5 is way more than enough to zip this climb up and have a few extra cams. Jun 2, 2011
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
Very fun movement. 2 stars due to junky rock in spots. Highly recommend anyway, just saying don't expect splitter stone, and I provisionally disagree on singles. If badass, singles. If not, dubs. Jul 28, 2013

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