Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra ??
Page Views: 246 total · 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 8, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is a little hard to find. Walk into the corridor and dump your pack at the hump. Continue over the hump, dropping down about 10 feet, and hook a left to a little flat spot at a bush. Just above you, to the left, will be a long right-arching crack climbing the steep grey wall. It eseentially faces downhill. You can also recognize the start of this route from an old piton in a corner, just right of the arete of the buttress.

Either start by climbing the corner to the piton and stepping across right into the main crack system (hairy, 5.10s), or just climb the crack direct (5.9). The old pin means this route may have been done some time ago, but then again, maybe not. Who knows?

Continue up the crack. One disconcerting thing about the whole middle section is that the crack becomes a sort of layback pillar that's hollow as hell. You have to tug on it, and plug your gear into it. Encounter a crux rooflet past the pillar, then continue up the crack on more solid rock until you "dead end" at a clean slab. Step a bit left, climb a seam via fingerlocks, then head straight up to a ledge with double-bolts (invisible from below). The position of the bolts, back away from the edge, means it's easier to bring up a second than to set up a toprope. This is a long, pumpy, involved pitch.

60-meter rope is mandatory.

Protection

This is a very long pitch (30 meters) that gobbles up mid-range TCUs (Metolius yellow, orange and red) and hand-sized gear. Bring up to 4" pro and a standard rack.

Photos