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Lifestream

5.11a, Trad, Sport, 230 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 22 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter, Joyce Rossiter, & Steve Ilg - 1987
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall
Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details

Description

  • Note that we only did the second pitch after rapping from another climb and traversing across the big ledge system on the lower half of Mickey Mouse Wall*

Lifestream goes up the left side of the arete at the far left of the Mickey Mouse Wall. Climb up past a gear placement and then past [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor (note the anchors do not have lowering rings and could use a pair of quicklinks up there). Two cruxes - one at the first bolt, one at the fifth. Lots of interesting sequences made this climb enjoyable.

Rap with a 60m rope to a grassy ledge ten feet above the main ledge.

The first pitch looks decent but nothing special. The meat of the route is the second pitch.

Protection

Second pitch is [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor, bring a [#2 Friend] to protect the run to the first bolt. First pitch supposedly takes gear to one inch [and has 1 bolt].

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the tree belay on P1, looking up at the aesthestic arete & salivating
[Hide Photo] From the tree belay on P1, looking up at the aesthestic arete & salivating
At the 5th bolt...which happens to be the lone bolt that is difficult to clip... enjoying the reassurance of a positive arete for a rest after clipping
[Hide Photo] At the 5th bolt...which happens to be the lone bolt that is difficult to clip... enjoying the reassurance of a positive arete for a rest after clipping
Starting the crux moves. If you can reach a couple of key holds, it's only about 10a, and with a bolt at your chest.
[Hide Photo] Starting the crux moves. If you can reach a couple of key holds, it's only about 10a, and with a bolt at your chest.
Doing the R version at what seemed to be the crux...although the smarter climber may go left instead here.
[Hide Photo] Doing the R version at what seemed to be the crux...although the smarter climber may go left instead here.
Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom section up to the bush is about 5.9
[Hide Photo] Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom section up to the bush is about 5.9

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] First pitch is a boulder problem and is OK. Rossiter points out a third pitch as well. Directly above the 2nd pitch anchor he claims that the arete is 10-. Too bad it was totally unproteced mossy and contrived. Third pitch not worth doing. Aug 20, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] If you're feeling weak, volunteer to lead the first pitch! IMHO, this is one of the easiest 10d's around. The crux on p2 is much harder, and I injured my shoulder struggling from an iron cross position. Still a fun and worthwhile route! Sep 7, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I can't remember if it was this climb or "Vergin' on Perversion" that I messed my shoulder up on. Anyway, if you find yourself in a strenuous iron cross on either of these, you are probably not doing it the right (easiest) way. Sep 7, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] This 2nd pitch is a real gem! Thanks, Richard, Joyce, & Steve! Just enough spice. Bring your tight slippers/face climbing shoes, though. P1 isn't the heart of the climb, although a reach L or crossing over with the R to the rail above the bolt helps. For P2, you can belay from the tree at the ledge & a #2 Friend fits before the 1st bolt. Didn't find any other natural pro. You can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt either L or precariously on the arete to the R. Interesting sequences at each bolt, high steps, arete slapping, decent rests, a thumb mantle & even a heel hook. Another amazing find! Also, seem to have left a #4 Camalot near the base here :( Sep 7, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Second pitch has fantastic rock and super cool moves. Very well bolted- [tough] parts are well protected, easier sections are a bit more run out. Oct 24, 2005