Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)

Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke), The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beer Belly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydraulic Sandwich S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy Paralyzer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Mike Endicott & George Bracksieck, 1981, Bolted: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, Tom Englebach, and Dave Salisbury, 1996.
Page Views: 1,331 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the rightmost of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the huge roof on the right.

From the top of the approach trail to the Beer Can, scramble up to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay anchor. Continue 20' right to another 2-bolt belay anchor; start here.

Climb up toward the right side of the roof, onto a ramp, then chimney and stem (crux) around the roof. Continue up a slab/corner and angle left to the anchor.

Rolofson calls this route 10c, but it seemed easier.

Protection

2-bolt belay anchor. 14 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor. Bring a 60m rope and several longer runners.

The top anchor is shared by all three bolted routes on the rock.

Photos

A few years ago, Mike and I went back. Clipping the 14 bolts, I led this climb, the top of which seemed different from what I remembered. The climb that Mike led in 1981 didn't have a #3 Friend placement at the top of the dihedral, as does this climb. As I brought Mike up, he noted that he had exited left in 1981 (on what is now known as "Icy Paralyser") where that line of bolts diverges from this one.

Yesterday, we climbed "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that "Icy" was MIke's lead in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed after exiting from the main dihedral, to the left.

We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed we had done "DtP" — it is rated 5.10. Sep 25, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Wow, you guys play nicely together. Ice cream for both of you!
Seriously- I wouldn't have guessed that it was a free route before the bolts either, so I can see where the mistake got made. Nice that you are both taking it in stride. Jun 1, 2011
Steve -- No worries. I don't think first ascenders own the rock, anyway.

Every time I've driven up the canyon since we climbed it, I've reminisced about it. Now I'd like to clip those bolts (and the others on the rock). So leave 'em there. Jun 1, 2011
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
George, that must have been an impressive lead by Mike. I can imagine there was hardly any gear at all let alone any good gear. Since there was no record of your ascent on the rock or any guidebook as of 1996, we bolted it. If you guys are sure this is the same line (and I believe it probably is) and Mike wishes to see the bolts removed, I will gladly remove them.
We named it the Beer Can for the 30 year old Coors Cans we found wedged on the summit block. Peace, Steve S. May 30, 2011
Mike Endicott led me up this route in Sept 1981. Most of the climb had no good pro. We called it (and the rock) The Angel of Death. The rock resembles a Darth Vader-like creature with wings folded down. The route climbs along the left edge of the right-hand wing. May 30, 2011

More About The Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke)

Printer-Friendly Guide