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Routes in The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)

Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke), The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beer Belly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydraulic Sandwich S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy Paralyzer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996.
Page Views: 1,136 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the leftmost of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the big roof on the left.

From the top of the Beer Can approach trail, scramble up to a small ledge with a 2-bolt belay anchor on the left side of the Beer Can.

Start with some easy climbing up and right, zig-zagging towards the left side of the huge roof. It's a good idea to use longer runners on these initial bolts. Clip the 5th bolt underneath the roof, and make an airy move out right on jugs (5.9) over the roof. Clip the 6th bolt, then unclip the 5th bolt to minimize rope drag and keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the roof. Above, the wall steepens and some thin face moves (5.10b) are needed to reach the anchor.

Protection

2-bolt belay anchor. 12 bolts to a three-bolt anchor. Bring several longer runners and a 60m rope.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge is committing. The swing at the roof is fun! Oct 25, 2015
Tombo
Boulder
 
Tombo   Boulder
 
I agree with Ivan's statement on clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge, it's commiting. I'm 5'6" on a good day and had to use a 6" cheater to clip it after moving up a bit on the crimps. Without it, I would have had to do a really scary move to clip. Other than that, a really fun climb. Apr 23, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The roof is a fun "no feet" swing through. Why not use feet? Because you don't have to. Monkey-bar like holds don't need them.The crux is up above on the slab and face. Edging shoes or crimping dues, your choice. Oct 10, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Turning the roof is exciting, but not too hard. I did not unclip the bolt protecting the roof and instead used a long runner. But the first bolt above the roof caused the rope to run around a small corner, and that caused some serious drag later. So maybe unclip the bolt above the roof after clipping the bolt above that.

Clipping the bolt above the big sloping ledge was scary for me. It's a long reach (and I'm tall), and you're a long way above the previous bolt. You have good edge for one hand, but you have to smear up with your feet to make the reach (or worse if you're short). If you blew the clip, you'd come flying over the roof and probably hit the wall below. If you're having trouble making this clip, you can traverse right on the sloping ledge and temporarily clip a bolt on Icy Paralyzer. Aug 29, 2004
Everyone should go to HydraulicSandwich.com for more details!!! Nov 16, 2003