Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lens Rock

Ain't My Gull To Whack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Arch Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flakes of Glass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Frame, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optic Nerve T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Spectacle, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tennis Shoe Tango T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chip Salaun, 1979
Page Views: 177 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Season raptor closures Details

Description

As the name implies this climb follows the leftward curving crack that eminates from the dihedral on the right side of the face.

P1. Start at the bottom of the big, left facing dihedral and thrutch (not to be equated with unpleasant climbing), up the chimney/offwidth to a projecting rib of rock. One may cross over right of this and continue up more of the same to the top, Right Chimney 5.6. At this same level, the Arch Crack [the second crack] curves off to the left to intersect with Tennis Shoe Tango and a belay, 140 ft. 5.5.

P2. Continue up the nicest portion of the Tango crack with great hand jams, 5.6. The difficulty jumps a grade at the headwall crack (5.7) with more great jamming to the top. Alternatively, walk right, under the precariously perched cap of granite above, and descend down the back.

This is a fine climb with incremental increases in jamming difficulty, good protection and as mentioned above includes the best climbing of both routes.

Protection

Standard rack plus extra larger pieces as most of the crack is hand, fist and offwidth.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Anyone ever do a variation going straight up from the beginning of the arching crack connecting runout grooves to the top, left of Right Chimney? Addendum now a couple of 2nd pitches are added to the database: Flakes of Glass & Ain't My Gull To Whack. May 13, 2005