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Routes in 420s

Type: Boulder
FA: Chip Phillips & Justin Jaeger, 2003
Page Views: 816 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chip Phillips on Jul 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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The Kingpin Boulder is closed to climbing Details

Description

Crushed Ice is on the east/southeast face of the same boulder as Crusher. This boulder appears to be near the property boundary, so tread lightly and be respectful. For your reference, this boulder is about 30 yards west of the Kingpin Boulder (which is on private property) and 20 yards east from the boulder that has Toaster, Tollbooth Willy and the Willy Arete. To further clarify, this cluster of boulders is about 100 yards east of the Tilt/Divergence/Crazy Cody/Cloudwalker Area.

Anyway, the problem ascends the 80 degree east/southeast-facing slab. Walk around the corner clockwise from Crusher and you will see the slab. Right of the seam that peters out, ascend the 16 foot slab on mostly thin crimps.

We cleaned the hell out of this problem, but plenty of lichen may remain particularly up high. In other words, be careful if you choose to smear on anything.

Protection

a crashpad and spotter

Photos

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Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
 
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
 
Chris said: "PG and BS did the FA of this slab years ago....der! Not a new rt. Who cares realy, just for the history of the area. You can bet on those guys climbing just about everything that has features in the Poudre and not ever saying a word about it."

first chris, i'm well aware that pg and bs were the first to do many/most of the lines in and around the 420s and the Gandalf area. they absolutely deserve tons of credit for their vision and hard work. second, i'm also aware that if they did that problem, no one would have ever heard a thing about it.

that said, the problem in question had a 1/16" of healthy lichen all the way up it including on the few thin holds down low on the problem. the critical holds for the topout had 1/2" of lichen and moss all over them. jj and i spent 30 minutes plus with 2 brushes scrubbing the thing top to bottom just so we could find some dime edges to dance up and a reasonable topout. if someone climbed it before us, they certainly made no effort to clean anything on the problem or actually use any of the holds.

there is a faintly chalked and more obvious line 15 feet left of the line in question. i suspect you may be talking about that problem. Dec 30, 2003
PG and BS did the FA of this slab years ago....der! Not a new rt. Who cares realy, just for the history of the area. You can bet on those guys climbing just about everything that has features in the Poudre and not ever saying a word about it. Dec 26, 2003