Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter, Jessica True, and Holly Parsons, 2001
Page Views: 3,719 total · 18/month
Shared By: Rog on Oct 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Follow the directions to the Main Wall of Solaris. This is the first route you run across. From the base of the route, it is difficult to see the second pitch, but you can see the beefy bolts for the first.

The first pitch doesn't look too inspiring. Rossiter's site calls it 5.7. I guess there is a 7 move in there, but the first 'pitch' is really there to get to the better climbing up above. Clip four bolts to the anchor on a nice ledge with a bit of loose rock.

The second pitch is fun. This was our last climb for the day, and it felt a bit hard for 9 but probably due to tiredness. From the belay, you can clip the first bolt, then move up, clip, make a strenuous layback move, and keep going up. Toward the end of the pitch, you pull onto a slab for a couple moves, then continue up to the anchor on a nice ledge with a great view.

It would be possible to walk off from here, but rapping the route is certainly more convenient. We had a 70m rope and even with the long cord it took two raps to get down - the 70m would have left about 15' of downclimbing.

I wouldn't go to Solaris for this route, but if you're there it's worth getting on it.

PS. I'm sure you can climb this in one pitch....

Protection

Described on Rossiter's site as two pitches. First has 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, second has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos