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Trouthead

5.10d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 107 votes
FA: Ken Trout
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Little Eiger
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Description

This is the fourth route to the right of the cave area/arete (Bonehead), which is located on the left (East) side of Little Eiger. The route begins at the original start to Headline, below the crack with a bolt to protect the face moves. Immediately above the first bolt is a new rust colored bolt that sends you up and right onto the Trouthead line.

We were all given the opportunity to name this route, so we did (see topo drawing). Clip the Headline first bolt, move up to the crack and clip the second bolt for Trouthead. Move up and right, away from the crack. Surmount a thin, crimpy bulge with a tricky clip at the fourth bolt. At the sixth bolt, prepare for the crux. Bulgy, sequential moves get you to easier terrain and the anchors. This new route is a previously unbolted line that is a nice addition to the wall. The new anchors on top of this section of the wall are very well done. You definitely need the topo to figure out what happened here, without it you will be lost.

Protection

7 bolts to double bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "Headwall" area.  
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After one of my kids took a huge fall on Bonehead and another guy at the crag told me he broke his ankle on it, I rebolted my old routes to make them more fun for family and friends.
[Hide Photo] A topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "Headwall" area. After one of my kids took a huge fall on Bonehead and another guy at the crag told me he broke his ankle on it, I rebolted my old…
Leeanne on Trouthead.
[Hide Photo] Leeanne on Trouthead.
Leeanne on Trouthead.
[Hide Photo] Leeanne on Trouthead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Awkward crux on sharp holds... Oct 9, 2003
[Hide Comment] Failed the flash at the crux but didn't stop, thanks to a little motivation from my belayer. Footwork's the ticket here. Have fun...go broncos Oct 12, 2003
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I'm going to play the role of up-rater because I thought this climb had some rather thin moves and warrants a 5.11 rating. It is enjoyable. To locate the route, look at the hand-sketched topo. On that topo you will see an unnamed route between "Headline" and "Eiger Sanction". This is "Trouthead". Sep 11, 2005
Ralph Kolva
Pine, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I did this climb today after doing Eiger Sanction without knowing what it was. I would say it's slightly harder than ES for whatever that's worth. Being a chicken s*it about taking falls I would probably take a small piece to place below the first bulge as a fall there would not be real pleasant. In general I would say that the grades at Little Eiger tend to be stiffer (read more accurate) than some of the other areas in Clear Creek I've climbed. All in all a fairly fun climb, worth as many stars as ES. It has a couple of nice thin moves before you get to the second bulge and the crux will keep your attention.

Ralph Kolva Jun 5, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] FWIW, at the 6th bolt, if you go right to the jugs, it feels 10c. If you go straight along the bolts, it feels 11-. Really fun route. Thanks, Ken! Jul 2, 2007
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Neat line. Awkward (but fun) facey start, thin bulging crux, and a cool gaston at the overhang. Aug 15, 2008
robbie s
littleton
[Hide Comment] Great climb, tricky to onsight, fell a few times on the crux trying to stay with the bolts.... After getting the redpoint, following the bolts felt like -11, going out right felt like a solid 10...with good rests available before the crux, either way that you send it.... Sep 24, 2012
goingUp
over here
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This route screams balance right from the get go!
The first bulge threw me, for being difficult to read during my onsight attempt, and then from being tired, so did the roof. However, the cruxes are well-protected, and the moves are there. Love the Eiger. Jun 10, 2013
Andy Bandos
CO
5.10d
[Hide Comment] I can honestly say it's the hardest 10 I've been on in CCC, and I've been climbing here for years. Sep 20, 2015
Wes Farrar
DENVER, COLORADO
 
[Hide Comment] This felt harder then Eiger Sanction. Some of the clips are strenuous and committing which add to the pump. Great route! Solid 10+. Apr 27, 2017