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Routes in Solaris

Contact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cosmic Explorer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crumbs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Don't Get Me Started S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Harvest Moon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Kundalini Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leftovers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Luminosity, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mephistophiles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission To Mars T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Place In the Universe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Party On T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Way, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Start Me Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stellar Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower of Power S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twilight Zone S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 6,297 total, 34/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Follow the approach to the Main Wall of Solaris. The Luminosity starts under a big triangular roof, 85' left of Mission to Mars, and 10' left of Tower of Power.

Climb up into a right-facing corner under the big roof, turn the roof on the left, and continue up the left edge of a steep face to the anchors. Belay from a good ledge at the top, or lower 75' to the start.

The best route on Solaris.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring three or four longer runners to minimize rope drag.
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Excellent route with varied moves - loved it! The crux is tricky for a 5.9 but definitely doable. Want my beta to avoid aiding it? After you turn the huge roof and stand up to clip the next bolt, drop back down about a foot to stay low on good hands and feet and traverse back toward the right edge of the face. There's a high right-hand pinch on the face that should be within reach unless you're quite short. It's not much, but it's solid. There's also a mini-ledge just under the face itself near the arete - get your feet on this, pull on the right-hand pinch, and stand up calmly. Decent left-hand holds will be in reach. I'm 5'7" and wimpy, and this move wasn't reachy or pumpy or too thin for me. The rest of the route similarly has good hands and feet if you look for them and have decent technique. Use a few long slings to reduce rope drag if you've got them. Jul 3, 2016
Dale Haas and I addressed the problems with the 4th bolt on this route. We added a SS lock washer and applied some silicone seal to the threads, so this bolt should stay tight for a while. We also tightened most of the other bolts on the route. Oct 6, 2014
Ben Wiz
Boulder, Co
  5.9+
Ben Wiz   Boulder, Co
  5.9+
Fun problem, great views, worth the extra hike from Avalon to do.
Upgrading a bit due to the crux, which felt hard for a 5.9 (even for Boulder Canyon). Jul 28, 2014
Conor Felletter
Boulder, Colorado
 
Conor Felletter   Boulder, Colorado
 
One of the best 5.9s IMHO. I got around the roof by crouching low standing on the ledge on the face of the arete(?) and sidepulling on both sides then just inching around. The crux is committing, but there is small micro-ledge above the cave right of the jug that you can get your foot up on to. In conjunction with the pinch, it's doable. Be warned, the next few clipping stances aren't great and might really tax a nervous leader. Jul 24, 2014
Fiona Dunne
Boulder, CO
 
Fiona Dunne   Boulder, CO
 
Crux bolt nut (the first bolt after the roof) is still loose - I hand-tightened it today. Jul 24, 2014
Karissa Sampson
Boulder, CO
Karissa Sampson   Boulder, CO
Excellent route. Sustained climbing at the grade. I'm not sure how it was before a hold at the crux reportedly broke off, but I would say it goes at 5.9, sustained with some moves over exposure. I too found the bolt next to the crux to be loose 7/2/14. Solid bolt, the nut on it is just loose. Didn't have a tool otherwise I'd have tightened it more than just by hand. It's probably the bolt most likely to get torqued on the route due to being at the crux, so check it out before you clip it. Have fun! Jul 3, 2014
Tombo
Boulder
  5.9
Tombo   Boulder
  5.9
I tried to rope solo Luminosity today, and I am clueless at the crux so ended up doing it 5.8 A0. For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to move my hands to lean over to the jug? Is the move height dependant or was I just off today? I think the Avalon/Solaris area is some of the softest grades in the canyon, and this felt way harder than say Dominator, Mists of Avalon, The Tower, or Wheel of Fortune. Or like I say I was off and missing something. Have to go back w/ a partner. Nov 29, 2013
NOTICE: As of 9/7/13, the 4th bolt (I believe) above the roof and at the crux is loose. Still a great route! Definitely a stiff 9 without the broken off hold...maybe 10a? Sep 7, 2013
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
Terrific, long route with great positions on very steep rock and spectacular views at the top. Sustained 5.8/5.9 with a 5.10a crux above the roof. Aug 30, 2013
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.9+
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.9+
I lead this yesterday, having never climbed it before. It's well protected, but I would grade it at 9+, only for the crux. Someone mentioned the sidepull being gone, which makes it much more balancy to get your feet above the roof. The next couple moves are tricky as well, which makes the sequence harder than 9 in my opinion.

For reference, I've lead In Memory of Trees twice, and feel Luminosity is more difficult. Not quite 10a, but sustained 8+, with a 9+ crux. The diagonal crack before the anchors is excellent. Jun 23, 2013
joefbtg28 Grossman  
  5.10a
One of the best 5.9 sport routes in Boulder Canyon! Turning the roof and next few face moves are the crux. The flake at the top is my favorite section. May 17, 2012
Jeff Chrisler
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Jeff Chrisler   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Yeah, when I climbed it today, I was confused about the sequence above the roof. Having climbed it before, I remembered a nice hold to get your feet over to the right and eventually up. Without the hold, it's definitely harder- perhaps 10a. Mar 25, 2012
David Hankin  
 
During early September, I pulled off a hunk of rock about the size of a book at the crux. So... it's a little harder now.

To pass the crux, there was this sidepull off to your right. Yeah, it's not there anymore.

Good luck. It's still a blast of a route. Nov 1, 2011
jcntrl
Smoulder, CO
  5.8
jcntrl   Smoulder, CO
  5.8
Nicely varied climbing (backstep, layback, you can even fingerjam if you really want) on positive holds the whole way.

Recommend using a double-runner on the bolt inside the dihedral; this will help with rope drag a bit later, but it's manageable without.

5.9? It's a "boulder canyon 5.9" which means it's more like 5.8. Whatever. 5.youcan or 5.youcan't. Jul 8, 2009
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
This is a fun route with big, positive hand holds for the entire thing. It is a sequence of interesting moves shifting your weight around. I would say there isn't a single move harder than 5.8, but it is sustained throughout. Aug 11, 2008
djoseph
  5.9
djoseph  
  5.9
One of the best sport 9s that I've been on in BC. Interesting moves and great views. This and The Memory of Trees at Watermark are my favorites at the grade. Sep 19, 2007
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
5.9
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
5.9
I really liked this route. Fun, varied moves and nice length and nicely bolted. May 25, 2007
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Don't pass this one up! Excellent route that will clean up in time. Recommend that the belayer be wearing a helmet and glasses as there is an occasional lichen shower and/or pebble size rock. There are also some fist size rocks waiting to be pulled out as well. 50M rope just gets you down. Don't forget your knots in the ends though! Aug 13, 2006
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
I thought this was another great route on Solaris. Fun, sustained climbing to the anchors, with great position. The final moves up the arcing hand crack just below the anchors are great. I would agree with Ron - the best route on Solaris, and worth going back to. Aug 7, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Maybe 5.9 by Boulder Canyon sport standards, but there are much harder 9s. The fun move is the move left at the roof--squatting there trying to figure out what to do with your head. The moves up and right above the roof are also tricky. I wanted to go right just above the lip... Oct 29, 2003